Category Archives: Cologne

The Sniff That Triggers A Memory

One of the main reasons I’ve been obsessed and enthralled with cologne has been its power of summoning remembered experiences. It’s long been believed that scent is the most powerful memory trigger, and in my experience that is most certainly the case. There are certain basic colognes from long ago that bring me back to my youth. Calvin Klein’s ‘Eternity’ provided the background to my late high school days. It was the springboard to a college career of ‘Cool Water’ and ‘Curve’ and ‘Safari’ and ‘Polo Sport’ – and I’m not proud of any of those choices, but to get a whiff of them now brings me back to very specific moments as I crossed from the teen years into my twenties.

For the past decade or two, I like to think that my taste has refined and evolved, thanks to a richer understanding of life events, as well as a bigger pocketbook. My tastes now are dominated by Tom Ford’s Private Blend collection, which have happily provided memory triggers that is actually worth more than their exorbitant price point. There is no price that can be placed on some of these memories. What price could you put on happiness?

A brush with the exquisite ‘Venetian Bergamot’ brings me back to a 40thbirthday celebration in the Judy Garland suite of the Lenox Hotel, where we met a stuffed lion waiting beside a sparkling ruby red slipper. ‘Japon Noir’ is a smoky resinous beast designed for chilly November nights, a selection I usually save for special dinners with our family and Elaine – the pre-cursor to the holidays. Speaking of holidays, ‘Santal Blush‘ and its sandalwood sweetness have annually provided happy memory triggers, redolent of gifts of frankincense and myrrh.

A whiff of ‘Lavender Palm’ instantly conjures summer in the backyard, as mounds of lavender spill onto the pool deck, mixed and mingled with pushy stands of mint – both providing pleasant perfume when working in the area. 

The classic ‘Oud Wood’ is where my TF collection began. It was a gift from Andy, who gifted me many TF objects over the years, but not all. As we prepared for a family vacation in Cape Cod with a Boston stopover, I popped into the Neiman Marcus at Copley Square and purchased ‘Mandarino di Amalfi’ on my own because I loved it so much and could not wait. To this day, whenever I spray some on I think back to that wonderful vacation – our first with the twins – and an image of Andy and Emi lounging on the beach comes immediately to mind. The amber-hued August days in Boston are conjured with a spritz of ‘Rive d’Ambre’ from his line of Asian-inspired fragrances. That was another one that I loved so much I had to have it as soon as I tried it, and after letting it settle on my skin for a couple of hours I went right back in and got it.

Another gift from Andy, ‘Fucking Fabulous’ is actually a softer scent in spite of its brash moniker. I wore it for a couple of Broadway Mother’s Day weekend excursions with Mom, and it still kindles twinkling nights on Broadway, window shopping days at Bergdorf & Goodman, and endless walks up and down Fifth Avenue.

More summer memories were provided with ‘Costa Azzurra‘ which formed the spicy-sweet backdrop to our trip to Rehoboth Beach. The sun was deliciously hot, the waves were thrillingly immense, and the whole vacation – which coincided with another birthday – was an unexpectedly happy surprise. Along those lines was a rare summer visit to Ogunquit, when we knew we would be on the beach, where salt water met sand, smooth rocks glistened in the sun, and the scent of the ocean drifted on the strong breeze. Andy gave me an early anniversary gift of ‘Oud Minerale’ and worked with the salesperson at Bergdorf’s to insure that it reached us by the time we left for Maine. It worked out marvelously – the mineral elements matching the oceanic setting in a glorious bit of alchemy.

Finally, the coconut-tinged ‘Soleil Blanc’ provides one last dose of summer day memories, and this was another purchase I made on my own. The bottle was a steal (for TF prices at least) thanks to my Sephora VIP discount. (Tom Ford Private Blends never go on sale at other places; Sephora is now stocking more of them, and the VIP sales can usually be applied – a helpful hint hidden for those who stuck with this long-winded post until now.) ‘Soleil Blanc’ is summer incarnate – bright in its pure white bottle and golden seal – with the unmistakable nod to sun-tan lotion raised to an elegant echelon and drying down to powdery gorgeousness.

My cologne shelf is a treasure-trove of such fragrances and, more than mere scent, it’s a collection of memories lovely and dear, markers of the paths we have taken over the years, signifiers of all that we’ve gone through. It is a shelf that exists simultaneously in past and present and, if we’re lucky, future – for all that is to come. Every new day is the opportunity for a new memory, coupled with a new scent, waiting to be revisited on cold winter nights when loneliness creeps in through the cracks.

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Scent of a Prick

When you’ve already released a fragrance called ‘Fucking Fabulous’, the name ‘Rose Prick’ almost feels rather quaint. Of course it’s meant to be more provocative than that, as Tom Ford does so often and so well, but it’s the essence of rose that appeals to me more than the quad-controversial prick part, so let’s get into what I’ve read and heard about this mysterious cock-tease of a scent, and why I so badly desire it even as it’s yet unsniffed. 

Given its powder pink packaging and rose-tinted moniker, I initially didn’t give this one much thought or consideration, especially after the disappointment that was ‘Lost Cherry’. My indifference should have been a warning to me, like a protective thorn, that I should pay closer attention. The world seems to work that way, and once early reports came in indicating that this fragrance was not what it first seemed, I pricked my ears up and listened for the universal whispers. 

My first concern was that this was a redux of ‘Oud Fleur’ which is a rose-centered smoky oud delight, and one of my favorites, and I don’t believe in repeating or approximating Private Blends when they’re so expensive, but I was quickly schooled that this wasn’t anything like ‘Oud Fleur.’ Still, I sought out some excuse not to get into this, and we all know how it goes when you try to resist.

A few online sources provided additional firsthand information – this was not a super floral rose that ventured decidedly into stereotypically feminine territory. If anything, it was a patchouli and tonka-centered oriental take on rose, which is infinitely more appealing to me. Sillage and lasting power were reportedly in full TFPB effect, making this worthy of its price tag. Now I’m thorn, I mean torn, because I really covet this from everything I’ve heard, including the way it carries some serious pepper notes which I absolutely adore. 

I’ll be honest, I was not in the market for another Tom Ford Private Blend – I’ve got enough for life – but this one may delay that judicious decision. The heart wants what it wants as Valentine’s Day approaches…

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A Fragrance Fresh for Winter: Birch & Black Pepper by Jo Malone

Winter demands something clean in a fragrance. The holidays call for excess and fancy finery, and by the time January rolls around I want to shake off that heaviness for something light and clean. Tom Ford’s lighter Private Blends are decidedly summer-slanting, as are the gorgeous perfumes of the Hermes Jardin line. Winter doesn’t want for something sweet. Like the finest cocktails, winter scents are best left on the dry side. A bit woodsy, a bit smoky, and with just a touch of leather. Enter the Huntsman.

A Christmas gift from Andy (after I tried it out on this year’s Holiday Stroll) this is Jo Malone’s ‘Birch & Black Pepper’ cologne, a part of their Huntsman line, currently offered exclusively at Neiman Marcus. (So much for avoiding excess; no place on earth is more extra than NM.) With its top notes of black pepper lending a spicy factor which gives it some heat, this is a dry scent that goes well with the season. The birch notes kick in shortly thereafter, giving it a smoky resin that marries beautifully with the pepper. Dry and warm, with a hint of leather for rugged comfort, it revolves around a base note of gurjum, giving it a heart of wood that staves off the coldest winter wind.

Like many of Malone’s works, ‘Birch & Black Pepper’ is a straight-forward reading of its namesake ingredients (at least, at close to birch as a fragrance is ever going to get), but slightly more potent than the usual light-as-air offerings this house tends to favor. Indicative of its higher price point, there is a bit more staying power, though it still requires multiple sprays to retain anything that’s going to be noticed.

That’s good for winter though, when we are all confined to small spaces with stuffy uncirculated air. This one opens up nicely into such confines, then lets you go on your merry way without commitment or offense.

 

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The Cozy Season in Scents of Amber

Its resinous richness redolent of its namesake, ‘Amber Absolute‘ by Tom Ford is the perfect smoldering scent to greet the deep days of the fall season. I have a perfumed pathway that leads from September to December thanks to Mr. Ford and his Private Blends. It begins with the incense-like ‘Vert D’Encens‘ from his Vert line – the perfect September scent that carries some lingering sweetness from summer into fall. Those transition times are tricky, but the Vert series deftly straddles the shifting line of demarcation. After that, October brings the heat of ‘Amber Absolute’ – when fall is at its most radiant, when the forest leaves are on fire, and when the final warm days of the year release their splendor like it’s their very last show (because it is).

When October goes and November rears its cruel gray head, something smoky and dramatic is needed, which I find in the bracing ‘Japon Noir‘ – a dark shade of soapy night decadence that sparkles in the early blackness of evening. That’s a difficult one for day-wear, but I don’t mind subjecting the office to such a heart of darkness once in a while.

December calls for something special, with the celebratory spirit of the holidays when we need something to brighten the darkest and shortest days of the year. ‘Tuscan Leather‘ and ‘Santal Blush’ are the pair of unlikely sweethearts to see us through those holidays – the former with its smoky sweetness and the latter with its sandalwood opulence. Together they seduce the sense of smell, whispering and gently tugging at all those who follow in their sillage.

As we careen through autumn at full-throttle speed, I’m grateful for such small delights to ease the cooler days and nights. An embrace of cologne can be better than a hug, if you’re as cold as me.

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Florabotanica by Balenciaga

When throwing a Flower Party, the featured fragrance should be, well, floral, no matter how non-groundbreaking that may be. At the very least, the invitations should have a floral scent to them. Enter Balenciaga’s sumptuously flowery ‘Florabotanica’ -which is what I used when crafting summer invitations earlier this season.

Oddly enough, I never used to be a fan of florals for fragrance. There are exceptions, and summer is the time when they happen: I love a neroli or a bergamot for the hot days – and any sort of citrus blossom is enough to bring back sunny memories that may or may not have actually happened. The feeling it invokes is so sweet, however, that it doesn’t matter. They’ve come to exist on a memory plane that belongs solely to them.

Balenciaga created a pair of fine florals a couple of years ago, and Florabotanica spoke to me because it had a green freshness that worked to temper the sweetness of its floral focus. The literature for this fragrance is as over-the-top as the scent itself, so of course I adore it:

The astonishing FLORABOTANICA came to life in a four-hand score. The two composers are Olivier Polge and Jean-Christophe Hearault. These two internationally renowned noses have written a music of scents that play on two major accords, like a plant world within a world. The Vetiver, Amber and Caladium Leaf accord to create a resonance of mossy and mysterious dark wood. And the Rose, Carnation and Mint accord like an exhilarating note with juvenile freshness. It should be specified that we are not talking about those extremely well-known roses from the Vulgaris Rosacea family. It is a hybrid rose born of the olfactory imagination of our two orchestrators. We cannot reveal all the secrets of these two floral, alchemists, but the Experimental Rose finds its origins in opulent Turkey. To give it a fairytale air, the two perfumers have added a formula of psychosensory plants, making it particularly enchanting. This Experimental Rose has the power to endlessly charm.

This isn’t one for everyday wear in my world – it’s too potent and dramatic. (And if I’m saying that, take heed.) But it is a beauty, one that opens up like its proverbial rose inspiration, and dries down to a slightly more delicate form. It is definitely floral as fuck, and shot through with enough greenhouse dreaminess to entwine the wearer with wreaths and tendrils of jungle sweetness. A guaranteed precursor of a summer swoon to those brave enough to try it on.

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Summer by Louis Vuitton

Les Colognes Louis Vuitton.

Those words taken together should strike terror into Andy’s heart, because the last time I experienced a Louis Vuitton obsession he was generous enough to gift me with one of their classic Keepall bags at a price point which shall remain absent on this site. The fact that they have been doing fragrance for a couple of years was not lost on me, but I never ventured into any research or experimentation because, well, money.

With the Les Colognes collection, a trio of summer-inspired scents looked as if the House of Vuitton might be making a more mainstream attempt at fragrance at a slightly more affordable level. (And it turns out that at $250 one gets 100 mL, which is roughly the same cost of a Tom Ford Private Blend, only with twice as much product.) Enough vulgar cash conversation, we are here to determine the merits of the scents themselves, not a financial lesson which I have no business giving.

Jacques Cavalier Belletrud is the perfumer behind the three offerings: Afternoon Swim, Cactus Garden, and Sun Song. Artist Alex Israel was tapped to design the flacons and packaging – brilliant, colorful works of art in vibrant shades of blue, green and yellow – ideal for the sunny, beachy, summery feel of the set. It sounds heavenly, as much for the specific notes as for the season they portend. Sun Song offers the sweet citrus of orange blossom; Cactus Garden gives off a green, lemongrass effervescence; and Afternoon Swim, on paper at least, sounds like my perfect cup of summer sun tea, with its mandarin and bergamot breeziness.

Citrus is notorious for its fleeting nature, gone too soon like summer itself, but this is the one season of the year where I don’t mind so much. Heavy, cloying, monsters of sillage have no place in the lighter days when heat and humidity strike down all in their path. Besides, a re-application during the day is a welcome boost when the afternoon starts lagging.

Of course, this throws a sweetly-scented wrench into the spring/summer cologne proceedings, which up to this point have been dominated by selections from Hermes and Diana Vreeland and possibly Tom Ford. Will Louis Vuitton topple such venerable favorites? Only the summer knows…

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Staggeringly Beautiful by Diana Vreeland

Not to be outdone by Tom Ford (as if!) the house of Diana Vreeland has released ‘Staggeringly Beautiful’ – which sounds, on paper at least, to be one of their strongest releases in a while. I’m still trying to find an anniversary fragrance, and the Vreeland line has proved lucky in the past, with their ‘Vivaciously Bold‘ showstopper and its bright green bottle with a Tiffany-blue tassel. The new release reads like heaven:

“You have to have a dream.” – Diana Vreeland

An ode to Diana Vreeland’s broad vision of beauty. She redefined beauty and found it where it never existed before—it could be a unique attribute like a gap between front teeth or the length of a woman’s neck; a shade of crimson that reminded her of a Balenciaga cape; the vibrant sound of Notre Dame’s bells, or the unforgettable golden light of the sun setting on a hot summer day.

Vibrant, sparkling and transportive, Staggeringly Beautiful perfectly captures the cool breezes, sparkling clear water, and lush, rich foliage of the summer aromas along the Mediterranean.

The amazing aura of Staggeringly Beautiful comes from the rarely combined earthy fig leaf with the delicious fig fruit. The beautiful bouquet is then induced with citrus elements from Sicilian bergamot and paired with the rarely used jonquil (daffodil), a flower native to France, the heart exudes rich, green, floral characteristics.

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Lavender to the Extreme

If you’re going to get me to shell out $320 for a Tom Ford Private Blend, you’ve got to come up with a better name than ‘Lavender Extreme.’ That said, I’m intrigued. My interest is piqued. I doubt I’ll be sold – I have my fill of lavender-tinged scents with ‘Lavender Palm‘ and ‘Beau de Jour‘ – both of which feature the delicious herb, so I’m not exactly in the market for another. But I do want to know what it smells like, and the bottle is exquisitely gorgeous. I’ve bought more going on far less (such as ‘Fucking Fabulous‘ – which had me at ‘Fucking’ then seduced with its surprisingly delicate notes). 

I’ll give it a whirl… but I think my anniversary scent is with another house… possibly Hermes. Or Penhaligon. Or Kilian. 

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Every Trip Begins with a Scent…

…to set the moment, to set the scene, and most importantly to set a memory.

With spring trips to Savannah, Boston, and New York in the planning stages, the first step in making anything happen is in selecting which cologne will usher in the Spring 2019 season. To that end, I’ve begun researching some possibilities, starting with three main contenders from the houses of Tom Ford and Hermes respectively.

First, ‘Beau de Jour’ by Mr. Ford is a fabulous fougere with a lavender tint that seems tailor-made for an anniversary stroll in Boston, as befitting a gentleman or two married for, say, nine years or so. Second, and perhaps first depending on the way the wind blows, is a new take on a classic Hermes fragrance – in the form of Equipage Geranium – which would work equally well in the Boston Public Garden or Savannah’s Forsyth Park en route to the Mercer House. I haven’t had much luck in finding something I adored from Hermes since Jean Claude Ellena departed after a few delicious Jardin creations, but as a whole they tend to veer toward the elegant and wistful, even if they lack in sillage and oomph. Spring is a time when it’s ok to be softer. There is enough noise from the birds and the bees and the flowers and the trees.

Third is the brand-new Jardin entry at Hermes (set to debut in March 2019 but available in certain secret circles already). Un Jardin Sur La Lagune is reportedly a white floral – featuring magnolia and sea salt, but since Ellena is no longer at the helm of the Jardin line, I must try it before ordering it blindly. I trust in Hermes, but fragrance at these price points is not something to, well, sniff at, so to speak. La Lagune, like all in the Jardin series, has an interesting inspirational back-story (I tend to take these as fanciful yarns rather than organic tales of literal truth, but if the end result is beautiful, what does it matter?) I won’t bore you with it now; if it happens to tickle my nose in a good way I’ll save the story for another write-up.

We’ve seen this battle before, the one between Hermes and Ford, and it always ends in glorious fashion because how can one go wrong with either house? Listen to my nonsense – I’m acting like one must choose between the two, when clearly the easiest solution is to get both so the choice may be based on the mood, the moment, and the magic at hand. Dilemma solved. Planning and preparation may commence. The scent of spring will soon carry on the wind…

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‘Beau de Jour’ by Tom Ford

A crisply-tied tie.

A pair of polished cuff-links.

A severe, pomaded side-part.

The makings of a gentleman now have the perfect olfactory accompaniment, whether of a day or a lifetime. Beginning with a burst of lavender, ‘Beau de Jour’ may be what Tom Ford’s recent series of fougere scents originally wanted to be. Not sure if I’m slightly chagrined that he waited to release the best after the rest of us got one of the others, or just relieved that there’s finally a fougere that gets elevated to the vaunted heights of the upper echelon of Private Blends – either way I smell damn good today thanks to this Beau, and my husband Andy who was sweet enough to present it to me on Valentine’s Day.

That lavender beginning, only the slightest bit reminiscent of Tom Ford’s own ‘Lavender Palm’, remains pretty clean for the first two hours of wear. A delicious shroud of green covers the initial spray – it reads rather mint-like for a moment (though the literature attributes this to a floral green geranium, which I love as well) before ripening into a richer oakmoss, with elements of basil shifting us deeper into verdant territory.

This is a decent Private Blend, even if it might require a spritz or two more to really make a statement. When I first started sampling this collection many years ago, I was sent a fragrance book of the original scents, with a few samples that ended up merging into one glorious TF amalgamation wafting out of the guestroom. That fragrance – an impossible to reproduce cacophony of the most lasting notes of some of those OG PBs – came to mind as this one wore on during the day. It was a gleeful turn of events, because I always end up trying to find the one dominant fragrance in a store like Barneys, where all their gorgeous scents blended together, and failing with my one selection. ‘Beau de Jour’ encompasses a little bit from a lot of other Private Blend bottles (I detected subtle reminders of the aforementioned ‘Lavender Palm’ along with faint echoes of ‘Fucking Fabulous’, ‘Fougere D’Argent’, and even a tiny bit of ‘Amber Absolute‘ and ‘Tobacco Vanille’ – all of which I favor.) That said, it still stands very much on its own – an elegant, distinguished gentlemen among rather more sordid brethren like ‘Tuscan Leather’, ‘Plum Japonais‘, ‘Japon Noir’, and ‘Santal Blush’.

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A Little Beau Peek

Dashing onto the scene just in time for Valentine’s Day is a new Tom Ford Private Blend, ‘Beau de Jour.’ It will certainly take the guesswork out of Andy’s search for a heart-day gift, and though I hesitate getting a scent unsniffed, it has paid off handsomely in the past. A little glory is worth a little risk. There’s safety in the description, too, as the literature makes it sound like a scent made in my own little paradise planet:

“Classic. Sharp. Maverick.

Beau de Jour presents the perfectly groomed gentleman who considers every detail. He exhibits the best version of himself to the world, but underneath the surface is something deeper, refreshing and sublime in all its layers.

A fresh, commanding entrance of Lavender from Provence introduces the clean and fervent facets of the Beau de Jour scent. The cool and refreshing open is further amplified with an infusion of energetic hybrid of lavenders. The core beats with the herbal inflection of African rosemary and floral green geranium with its subtle hint of mint inflection, a powerful contrast to the leather-like warmth of oakmoss and the electric green of basil. Patchouli and amber create an earthy foundation of radiant wood and sensual musky warmth, further elevating Bea de Jour’s refreshing notion of masculinity through the finish.”

To say so much and so little in such breathlessly frilly prose is an art form unto itself, and that description alone is enough to set my olfactory excitement into overload. I’ve always been a fan of lavender, and was actually on the hunt for something similar to see us through the brunt of winter. Lavender is one of those calming scents that, when done right, eases the mind and relaxes the body. We need that more than ever in the winter months. I’m a big fan of Ford’s earlier effort with the scent: ‘Lavender Palm.’ That veered into slightly perfume-like territory, not necessarily a bad thing, but it lingered in the upper register of notes, whereas I prefer something a bit deeper. ‘Beau de Jour’ on paper sounds like it fills that bill.

Having most recently purchased his ‘Fougere d’Argent’ I am just the slightest bit wary of putting another fougere-like scent into the repertoire so soon, but the moment calls for peace and refreshment, and that’s what lavender does best. Stay tuned…

UPDATE: This weekend’s Boston visit afforded me the chance to try this one out and I was pleasantly surprised. I like it better than the other Fougere offerings Ford has released of late, and part of that is due to the lovely hints of lavender, along with some potent staying power. Definitely worthy of Valentine’s Day…

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Put the Tree & Fruit All Over My Body

Early November is a tricky time for fragrance. The first flush of fall excitement, when I get all spicy and incense-like, has passed (Tom Ford’s ‘Amber Absolute‘ and ‘Vert D’Encens‘), but we are not quite to the point where I want to indulge in the sumptuous and rich sandalwood favorites I use around the holidays (‘Santal Blush‘ and ‘Absolutely Vital‘). What are we to do when searching for a fill-in fragrance to carry us into Thanksgiving? Look to Jo Malone.

While much of this line is too light for me, and, in a way, too light for fall, ‘English Oak & Redcurrant’ has proven remarkably durable when sprayed generously. The oak was what first attracted me to it at this time of the year. Oak leaves are currently dominating the wind and raking season, and the subtle yet infinite shades of cinnamon and bark they produce are a beautiful way to transition us into the more muted tones of colder days to come. The earthiness of the oak tempers the sweetness of the redcurrant, even if the latter leans toward tart. Malone is masterful at these fragrance mash-ups, and in her capable hands they’re more like marriages. (For sunnier days, try her basil and neroli coupling – it’s exquisite, even if it doesn’t last.) This one has decent longevity when compared with the rest of her offerings, and it’s a pleasant reminder to myself that I do like the fresh and fruity on occasion. If you’re looking for a brighter scent to set this fall aglow, give ‘English Oak & Redcurrant’ a try.

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Secret Celebrity Stash: SJP

Celebrity fragrances are a dicey bunch. For every exquisite ‘Truth or Dare: Nake’ by Madonna there are five silly bottles of candy water by Britney Spears. Most famous folk just seem to be in it for the money, their eyes turning all shades of violet in the hope of tapping into the cash-creating legacy of Elizabeth Taylor. Every once in a while, however, someone comes along who puts a little more time and care and research into what the world will forever associate with them, and Sarah Jessica Parker has done just that with her successful beauty line.

I was impressed by the way Ms. Parker came off in ‘The Perfect Scent’, Chandler Burr’s telling of the creation of two new perfumes. She was making her debut fragrance ‘Lovely’ and it sounds like ‘Stash’ was her original, albeit slightly too dark and out-of-the-box for the masses, attempt at what she actually wanted to produce. Thankfully, ‘Lovely’ became a smash and ‘Stash’ came along a few years later for those of us whose tastes veer a little dirtier.

Its triumvirate of top notes includes two of my favorites: grapefruit and black pepper, with some sage thrown in for good measure. After they dissipate a more resonant collection of notes comes through: cedar, patchouli, ginger lily and pistachio combine to give it the woody heart that pulls the perfume to a more traditionally-masculine space. It doesn’t quite stay there, however, as the dry down becomes something exquisitely beautiful and unisex – with the sweet and pungent base notes of olibanum, vetiver, musk and Massoia wood. On me, this turns into a rich sandalwood, which also happens to be my go-to for holiday scents (think Tom Ford’s ‘Santal Blush’ and Diana Vreeland’s ‘Absolutely Vital’). It comes into its own during the fall season, when its smoky edge can ease into the coziness of the cooler nights.

This not-quite-linear journey makes ‘Stash’ an impressive addition to the wildly popular SJP Beauty line, and it’s rare to find such gorgeous complexity at an affordable price point. If you find that it doesn’t linger as much as you’d like, there are supplemental items such as the hair mist and body oil to bolster the effect. Personally, I enjoy its lighter touch, especially in the office or during the crisp early days of fall descending.

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Dare I Lose My Cherry Again?

Tom Ford’s upcoming Private Blend ‘Lost Cherry’ has the provocative name one has come to expect, and the typical mainstream tendencies that mar so many fragrance releases these days, with something that leans (at least on paper) decidedly toward the candy sweetness that is such a big turn-off for those of us who like something darker and richer. That said, I’m always surprised by my own reaction to those slightly fruity fragrances. On the paper of what I’d diagram as my preferences, I wouldn’t classify fruity as a favored note, but it turns out I’m fruitier than I ever thought possible. Maybe it’s time to embrace that and go with it. 

I’ll give you the official literature on ‘Lost Cherry’ and the next time I get a chance to try it out, I’ll let you know how it goes. Here’s the soundbite:

LUSCIOUS. TEMPTING. INSATIABLE.

TOM FORD LOST CHERRY IS A FULL-BODIED JOURNEY INTO THE ONCE-FORBIDDEN; A CONTRASTING SCENT THAT REVEALS A TEMPTING DICHOTOMY OF PLAYFUL, CANDY-LIKE GLEAM ON THE OUTSIDE AND LUSCIOUS FLESH ON THE INSIDE.

INNOCENCE INTERSECTS INDULGENCE WITH AN OPENING THAT CAPTURES THE CLASSIC PERFECTION OF THE EXOTIC CHERRY FRUIT€“BLACK CHERRY’S RIPE FLESH DRIPPING IN CHERRY LIQUEUR GLISTENS WITH A TEASING TOUCH OF BITTER ALMOND.

THE HEART BURSTS FORTH IN CHERRY WAVES OF SWEET AND TART. GRIOTTE SYRUP EXPRESSES THE TEXTURED MACERATION OF VOLUPTUOUS FRUITS WHILE BREATHTAKING FLORALS TURKISH ROSE AND JASMINE SAMBAC PENETRATE THE SENSES AND SOUL.

PERU BALSAM AND ROASTED TONKA AT THE DRYDOWN SUGGEST A NEW PORTRAIT OF AN ICONIC SYMBOL. WHEN BLENDED WITH AN UNEXPECTED MELANGE OF SANDALWOOD, VETIVER AND CEDAR, THE FINISH REACHES FANTASY-INSPIRING LEVELS OF INSATIABILITY.

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Tom Ford’s ‘Fougere D’Argent’

No other plant exudes quite the same feel of freshness and bright greenery than the fern. The genus is so expansive and diverse that almost every shade of green is found within it, as well as every texture and size. From the smallest and daintiest button fern to the grandest tree fern, the fern world is vast and varied. Yet across the board, each fern carries a certain old-world elegance and refinement that belies its hardier qualities.

Such a happy correlation comes with Tom Ford’s newest Private Blend pair: Fougere D’Ardent and Fougere Platine. The ‘fougere’ part is from the French word for fern, which is fitting for these verdant fragrances, which also have notes recalling traditional old-world barber-shops and the like. To my admittedly-failing memory, Ford has never done a classic gentlemen fragrance. I suppose an argument could be made that his first self-titled mainstream cologne could be counted as such, and I’ve long maintained that the original does veer into traditional Old Spice territory, and another mainstream offering, ‘Grey Vetiver’, was true to its timeless namesake. Most of his Private Blends, however, have been (more or less delightfully) all over the map. ‘Azure Lime’ was one that came closest to a typical gentleman’s cologne, with its fresh citrus take that veered into the masculine side of his Neroli Portofino line. 

His recent Vert series touched on a green forest; my favorite of the lot, Vert D’Encens, is a veritable walk through a pine grove on a warm autumn day. Heavenly. Fougere D’Ardent brings that ferny woodiness and couples it with a barber shop finesse, merging into a refined delight perfect for seasonal transitions. 

It’s something one’s grandfather might wear if he were especially jaunty and far ahead of his time. A classic with a bold flare, which is, when you consider most classics, what intrinsically makes something a classic. Containing components of some of the earliest gentlemen colognes, still used today as proof of their everlasting timelessness, this fougere fragrance is a clarion of elegance and sophistication.

Here’s the official description:

Fouere d’Argent is a bold reimagining of the classic fougere, a structure that traditionally revolves around lavender, oakmoss, and coumarin. With oakmoss no longer available, Tom Ford has re-worked the model in a provocative manner, substituting moss with Akigalawood, a Givaudan captive derived from patchouli that has a wonderfully spicy, woodsy bitterness. What emerges from Ford’s confident handling is a scent that smells truly masculine – earthy, herbaceous, and rich, with a radiantly spiced muskiness that billows around its wearer.

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