Category Archives: Cologne

The Cozy Season in Scents of Amber

Its resinous richness redolent of its namesake, ‘Amber Absolute‘ by Tom Ford is the perfect smoldering scent to greet the deep days of the fall season. I have a perfumed pathway that leads from September to December thanks to Mr. Ford and his Private Blends. It begins with the incense-like ‘Vert D’Encens‘ from his Vert line – the perfect September scent that carries some lingering sweetness from summer into fall. Those transition times are tricky, but the Vert series deftly straddles the shifting line of demarcation. After that, October brings the heat of ‘Amber Absolute’ – when fall is at its most radiant, when the forest leaves are on fire, and when the final warm days of the year release their splendor like it’s their very last show (because it is).

When October goes and November rears its cruel gray head, something smoky and dramatic is needed, which I find in the bracing ‘Japon Noir‘ – a dark shade of soapy night decadence that sparkles in the early blackness of evening. That’s a difficult one for day-wear, but I don’t mind subjecting the office to such a heart of darkness once in a while.

December calls for something special, with the celebratory spirit of the holidays when we need something to brighten the darkest and shortest days of the year. ‘Tuscan Leather‘ and ‘Santal Blush’ are the pair of unlikely sweethearts to see us through those holidays – the former with its smoky sweetness and the latter with its sandalwood opulence. Together they seduce the sense of smell, whispering and gently tugging at all those who follow in their sillage.

As we careen through autumn at full-throttle speed, I’m grateful for such small delights to ease the cooler days and nights. An embrace of cologne can be better than a hug, if you’re as cold as me.

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Florabotanica by Balenciaga

When throwing a Flower Party, the featured fragrance should be, well, floral, no matter how non-groundbreaking that may be. At the very least, the invitations should have a floral scent to them. Enter Balenciaga’s sumptuously flowery ‘Florabotanica’ – which is what I used when crafting summer invitations earlier this season.

Oddly enough, I’ve never been a fan of florals for fragrance. There are exceptions, and summer is the time when they happen: I love a neroli or a bergamot for the hot days – and any sort of citrus blossom is enough to bring back sunny memories that may or may not have actually happened. The feeling it invokes is so sweet, however, that it doesn’t matter. They’ve come to exist on a memory plane that belongs solely to them.

Balenciaga created a pair of fine florals a couple of years ago, and Florabotanica spoke to me because it had a green freshness that worked to temper the sweetness of its floral focus. The literature for this fragrance is as over-the-top as the scent itself, so of course I adore it:

The astonishing FLORABOTANICA came to life in a four-hand score. The two composers are Olivier Polge and Jean-Christophe Hérault. These two internationally renowned noses have written a music of scents that play on two major accords, like a plant world within a world. The Vetiver, Amber and Caladium Leaf accord to create a resonance of mossy and mysterious dark wood. And the Rose, Carnation and Mint accord like an exhilarating note with juvenile freshness. It should be specified that we are not talking about those extremely well-known roses from the Vulgaris Rosacea family. It is a hybrid rose born of the olfactory imagination of our two orchestrators. We cannot reveal all the secrets of these two floral, alchemists, but the Experimental Rose finds its origins in opulent Turkey. To give it a fairytale air, the two perfumers have added a formula of psychosensory plants, making it particularly enchanting. This Experimental Rose has the power to endlessly charm.

This isn’t one for everyday wear in my world – it’s too potent and dramatic. (And if I’m saying that, take heed.) But it is a beauty, one that opens up like its proverbial rose inspiration, and dries down to a slightly more delicate form. It is definitely floral as fuck, and shot through with enough greenhouse dreaminess to entwine the wearer with wreaths and tendrils of jungle sweetness. A guaranteed precursor of a summer swoon to those brave enough to try it on.

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Summer by Louis Vuitton

Les Colognes Louis Vuitton.

Those words taken together should strike terror into Andy’s heart, because the last time I experienced a Louis Vuitton obsession he was generous enough to gift me with one of their classic Keepall bags at a price point which shall remain absent on this site. The fact that they have been doing fragrance for a couple of years was not lost on me, but I never ventured into any research or experimentation because, well, money.

With the Les Colognes collection, a trio of summer-inspired scents looked as if the House of Vuitton might be making a more mainstream attempt at fragrance at a slightly more affordable level. (And it turns out that at $250 one gets 100 mL, which is roughly the same cost of a Tom Ford Private Blend, only with twice as much product.) Enough vulgar cash conversation, we are here to determine the merits of the scents themselves, not a financial lesson which I have no business giving.

Jacques Cavalier Belletrud is the perfumer behind the three offerings: Afternoon Swim, Cactus Garden, and Sun Song. Artist Alex Israel was tapped to design the flacons and packaging – brilliant, colorful works of art in vibrant shades of blue, green and yellow – ideal for the sunny, beachy, summery feel of the set. It sounds heavenly, as much for the specific notes as for the season they portend. Sun Song offers the sweet citrus of orange blossom; Cactus Garden gives off a green, lemongrass effervescence; and Afternoon Swim, on paper at least, sounds like my perfect cup of summer sun tea, with its mandarin and bergamot breeziness.

Citrus is notorious for its fleeting nature, gone too soon like summer itself, but this is the one season of the year where I don’t mind so much. Heavy, cloying, monsters of sillage have no place in the lighter days when heat and humidity strike down all in their path. Besides, a re-application during the day is a welcome boost when the afternoon starts lagging.

Of course, this throws a sweetly-scented wrench into the spring/summer cologne proceedings, which up to this point have been dominated by selections from Hermes and Diana Vreeland and possibly Tom Ford. Will Louis Vuitton topple such venerable favorites? Only the summer knows…

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Staggeringly Beautiful by Diana Vreeland

Not to be outdone by Tom Ford (as if!) the house of Diana Vreeland has released ‘Staggeringly Beautiful’ – which sounds, on paper at least, to be one of their strongest releases in a while. I’m still trying to find an anniversary fragrance, and the Vreeland line has proved lucky in the past, with their ‘Vivaciously Bold‘ showstopper and its bright green bottle with a Tiffany-blue tassel. The new release reads like heaven:

“You have to have a dream.” – Diana Vreeland

An ode to Diana Vreeland’s broad vision of beauty. She redefined beauty and found it where it never existed before—it could be a unique attribute like a gap between front teeth or the length of a woman’s neck; a shade of crimson that reminded her of a Balenciaga cape; the vibrant sound of Notre Dame’s bells, or the unforgettable golden light of the sun setting on a hot summer day.

Vibrant, sparkling and transportive, Staggeringly Beautiful perfectly captures the cool breezes, sparkling clear water, and lush, rich foliage of the summer aromas along the Mediterranean.

The amazing aura of Staggeringly Beautiful comes from the rarely combined earthy fig leaf with the delicious fig fruit. The beautiful bouquet is then induced with citrus elements from Sicilian bergamot and paired with the rarely used jonquil (daffodil), a flower native to France, the heart exudes rich, green, floral characteristics.

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Lavender to the Extreme

If you’re going to get me to shell out $320 for a Tom Ford Private Blend, you’ve got to come up with a better name than ‘Lavender Extreme.’ That said, I’m intrigued. My interest is piqued. I doubt I’ll be sold – I have my fill of lavender-tinged scents with ‘Lavender Palm‘ and ‘Beau de Jour‘ – both of which feature the delicious herb, so I’m not exactly in the market for another. But I do want to know what it smells like, and the bottle is exquisitely gorgeous. I’ve bought more going on far less (such as ‘Fucking Fabulous‘ – which had me at ‘Fucking’ then seduced with its surprisingly delicate notes). 

I’ll give it a whirl… but I think my anniversary scent is with another house… possibly Hermes. Or Penhaligon. Or Kilian. 

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Every Trip Begins with a Scent…

…to set the moment, to set the scene, and most importantly to set a memory.

With spring trips to Savannah, Boston, and New York in the planning stages, the first step in making anything happen is in selecting which cologne will usher in the Spring 2019 season. To that end, I’ve begun researching some possibilities, starting with three main contenders from the houses of Tom Ford and Hermes respectively.

First, ‘Beau de Jour’ by Mr. Ford is a fabulous fougere with a lavender tint that seems tailor-made for an anniversary stroll in Boston, as befitting a gentleman or two married for, say, nine years or so. Second, and perhaps first depending on the way the wind blows, is a new take on a classic Hermes fragrance – in the form of Equipage Geranium – which would work equally well in the Boston Public Garden or Savannah’s Forsyth Park en route to the Mercer House. I haven’t had much luck in finding something I adored from Hermes since Jean Claude Ellena departed after a few delicious Jardin creations, but as a whole they tend to veer toward the elegant and wistful, even if they lack in sillage and oomph. Spring is a time when it’s ok to be softer. There is enough noise from the birds and the bees and the flowers and the trees.

Third is the brand-new Jardin entry at Hermes (set to debut in March 2019 but available in certain secret circles already). Un Jardin Sur La Lagune is reportedly a white floral – featuring magnolia and sea salt, but since Ellena is no longer at the helm of the Jardin line, I must try it before ordering it blindly. I trust in Hermes, but fragrance at these price points is not something to, well, sniff at, so to speak. La Lagune, like all in the Jardin series, has an interesting inspirational back-story (I tend to take these as fanciful yarns rather than organic tales of literal truth, but if the end result is beautiful, what does it matter?) I won’t bore you with it now; if it happens to tickle my nose in a good way I’ll save the story for another write-up.

We’ve seen this battle before, the one between Hermes and Ford, and it always ends in glorious fashion because how can one go wrong with either house? Listen to my nonsense – I’m acting like one must choose between the two, when clearly the easiest solution is to get both so the choice may be based on the mood, the moment, and the magic at hand. Dilemma solved. Planning and preparation may commence. The scent of spring will soon carry on the wind…

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‘Beau de Jour’ by Tom Ford

A crisply-tied tie.

A pair of polished cuff-links.

A severe, pomaded side-part.

The makings of a gentleman now have the perfect olfactory accompaniment, whether of a day or a lifetime. Beginning with a burst of lavender, ‘Beau de Jour’ may be what Tom Ford’s recent series of fougere scents originally wanted to be. Not sure if I’m slightly chagrined that he waited to release the best after the rest of us got one of the others, or just relieved that there’s finally a fougere that gets elevated to the vaunted heights of the upper echelon of Private Blends – either way I smell damn good today thanks to this Beau, and my husband Andy who was sweet enough to present it to me on Valentine’s Day.

That lavender beginning, only the slightest bit reminiscent of Tom Ford’s own ‘Lavender Palm’, remains pretty clean for the first two hours of wear. A delicious shroud of green covers the initial spray – it reads rather mint-like for a moment (though the literature attributes this to a floral green geranium, which I love as well) before ripening into a richer oakmoss, with elements of basil shifting us deeper into verdant territory.

This is a decent Private Blend, even if it might require a spritz or two more to really make a statement. When I first started sampling this collection many years ago, I was sent a fragrance book of the original scents, with a few samples that ended up merging into one glorious TF amalgamation wafting out of the guestroom. That fragrance – an impossible to reproduce cacophony of the most lasting notes of some of those OG PBs – came to mind as this one wore on during the day. It was a gleeful turn of events, because I always end up trying to find the one dominant fragrance in a store like Barneys, where all their gorgeous scents blended together, and failing with my one selection. ‘Beau de Jour’ encompasses a little bit from a lot of other Private Blend bottles (I detected subtle reminders of the aforementioned ‘Lavender Palm’ along with faint echoes of ‘Fucking Fabulous’, ‘Fougere D’Argent’, and even a tiny bit of ‘Amber Absolute‘ and ‘Tobacco Vanille’ – all of which I favor.) That said, it still stands very much on its own – an elegant, distinguished gentlemen among rather more sordid brethren like ‘Tuscan Leather’, ‘Plum Japonais‘, ‘Japon Noir’, and ‘Santal Blush’.

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A Little Beau Peek

Dashing onto the scene just in time for Valentine’s Day is a new Tom Ford Private Blend, ‘Beau de Jour.’ It will certainly take the guesswork out of Andy’s search for a heart-day gift, and though I hesitate getting a scent unsniffed, it has paid off handsomely in the past. A little glory is worth a little risk. There’s safety in the description, too, as the literature makes it sound like a scent made in my own little paradise planet:

“Classic. Sharp. Maverick.

Beau de Jour presents the perfectly groomed gentleman who considers every detail. He exhibits the best version of himself to the world, but underneath the surface is something deeper, refreshing and sublime in all its layers.

A fresh, commanding entrance of Lavender from Provence introduces the clean and fervent facets of the Beau de Jour scent. The cool and refreshing open is further amplified with an infusion of energetic hybrid of lavenders. The core beats with the herbal inflection of African rosemary and floral green geranium with its subtle hint of mint inflection, a powerful contrast to the leather-like warmth of oakmoss and the electric green of basil. Patchouli and amber create an earthy foundation of radiant wood and sensual musky warmth, further elevating Bea de Jour’s refreshing notion of masculinity through the finish.”

To say so much and so little in such breathlessly frilly prose is an art form unto itself, and that description alone is enough to set my olfactory excitement into overload. I’ve always been a fan of lavender, and was actually on the hunt for something similar to see us through the brunt of winter. Lavender is one of those calming scents that, when done right, eases the mind and relaxes the body. We need that more than ever in the winter months. I’m a big fan of Ford’s earlier effort with the scent: ‘Lavender Palm.’ That veered into slightly perfume-like territory, not necessarily a bad thing, but it lingered in the upper register of notes, whereas I prefer something a bit deeper. ‘Beau de Jour’ on paper sounds like it fills that bill.

Having most recently purchased his ‘Fougere d’Argent’ I am just the slightest bit wary of putting another fougere-like scent into the repertoire so soon, but the moment calls for peace and refreshment, and that’s what lavender does best. Stay tuned…

UPDATE: This weekend’s Boston visit afforded me the chance to try this one out and I was pleasantly surprised. I like it better than the other Fougere offerings Ford has released of late, and part of that is due to the lovely hints of lavender, along with some potent staying power. Definitely worthy of Valentine’s Day…

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Put the Tree & Fruit All Over My Body

Early November is a tricky time for fragrance. The first flush of fall excitement, when I get all spicy and incense-like, has passed (Tom Ford’s ‘Amber Absolute’ and ‘Vert D’Encens’), but we are not quite to the point where I want to indulge in the sumptuous and rich sandalwood favorites I use around the holidays (‘Santal Blush’ and ‘Absolutely Vital’). What are we to do when searching for a fill-in fragrance to carry us into Thanksgiving? Look to Jo Malone.

While much of this line is too light for me, and, in a way, too light for fall, ‘English Oak & Redcurrant’ has proven remarkably durable when sprayed generously. The oak was what first attracted me to it at this time of the year. Oak leaves are currently dominating the wind and raking season, and the subtle yet infinite shades of cinnamon and bark they produce are a beautiful way to transition us into the more muted tones of colder days to come. The earthiness of the oak tempers the sweetness of the redcurrant, even if the latter leans toward tart. Malone is masterful at these fragrance mash-ups, and in her capable hands they’re more like marriages. (For sunnier days, try her basil and neroli coupling – it’s exquisite, even if it doesn’t last.) This one has decent longevity when compared with the rest of her offerings, and it’s a pleasant reminder to myself that I do like the fresh and fruity on occasion. If you’re looking for a brighter scent to set this fall aglow, give ‘English Oak & Redcurrant’ a try.

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Secret Celebrity Stash: SJP

Celebrity fragrances are a dicey bunch. For every exquisite ‘Truth or Dare: Nake’ by Madonna there are five silly bottles of candy water by Britney Spears. Most famous folk just seem to be in it for the money, their eyes turning all shades of violet in the hope of tapping into the cash-creating legacy of Elizabeth Taylor. Every once in a while, however, someone comes along who puts a little more time and care and research into what the world will forever associate with them, and Sarah Jessica Parker has done just that with her successful beauty line.

I was impressed by the way Ms. Parker came off in ‘The Perfect Scent’, Chandler Burr’s telling of the creation of two new perfumes. She was making her debut fragrance ‘Lovely’ and it sounds like ‘Stash’ was her original, albeit slightly too dark and out-of-the-box for the masses, attempt at what she actually wanted to produce. Thankfully, ‘Lovely’ became a smash and ‘Stash’ came along a few years later for those of us whose tastes veer a little dirtier.

Its triumvirate of top notes includes two of my favorites: grapefruit and black pepper, with some sage thrown in for good measure. After they dissipate a more resonant collection of notes comes through: cedar, patchouli, ginger lily and pistachio combine to give it the woody heart that pulls the perfume to a more traditionally-masculine space. It doesn’t quite stay there, however, as the dry down becomes something exquisitely beautiful and unisex – with the sweet and pungent base notes of olibanum, vetiver, musk and Massoia wood. On me, this turns into a rich sandalwood, which also happens to be my go-to for holiday scents (think Tom Ford’s ‘Santal Blush’ and Diana Vreeland’s ‘Absolutely Vital’). It comes into its own during the fall season, when its smoky edge can ease into the coziness of the cooler nights.

This not-quite-linear journey makes ‘Stash’ an impressive addition to the wildly popular SJP Beauty line, and it’s rare to find such gorgeous complexity at an affordable price point. If you find that it doesn’t linger as much as you’d like, there are supplemental items such as the hair mist and body oil to bolster the effect. Personally, I enjoy its lighter touch, especially in the office or during the crisp early days of fall descending.

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Dare I Lose My Cherry Again?

Tom Ford’s upcoming Private Blend ‘Lost Cherry’ has the provocative name one has come to expect, and the typical mainstream tendencies that mar so many fragrance releases these days, with something that leans (at least on paper) decidedly toward the candy sweetness that is such a big turn-off for those of us who like something darker and richer. That said, I’m always surprised by my own reaction to those slightly fruity fragrances. On the paper of what I’d diagram as my preferences, I wouldn’t classify fruity as a favored note, but it turns out I’m fruitier than I ever thought possible. Maybe it’s time to embrace that and go with it. 

I’ll give you the official literature on ‘Lost Cherry’ and the next time I get a chance to try it out, I’ll let you know how it goes. Here’s the soundbite:

LUSCIOUS. TEMPTING. INSATIABLE.

TOM FORD LOST CHERRY IS A FULL-BODIED JOURNEY INTO THE ONCE-FORBIDDEN; A CONTRASTING SCENT THAT REVEALS A TEMPTING DICHOTOMY OF PLAYFUL, CANDY-LIKE GLEAM ON THE OUTSIDE AND LUSCIOUS FLESH ON THE INSIDE.

INNOCENCE INTERSECTS INDULGENCE WITH AN OPENING THAT CAPTURES THE CLASSIC PERFECTION OF THE EXOTIC CHERRY FRUIT€“BLACK CHERRY’S RIPE FLESH DRIPPING IN CHERRY LIQUEUR GLISTENS WITH A TEASING TOUCH OF BITTER ALMOND.

THE HEART BURSTS FORTH IN CHERRY WAVES OF SWEET AND TART. GRIOTTE SYRUP EXPRESSES THE TEXTURED MACERATION OF VOLUPTUOUS FRUITS WHILE BREATHTAKING FLORALS TURKISH ROSE AND JASMINE SAMBAC PENETRATE THE SENSES AND SOUL.

PERU BALSAM AND ROASTED TONKA AT THE DRYDOWN SUGGEST A NEW PORTRAIT OF AN ICONIC SYMBOL. WHEN BLENDED WITH AN UNEXPECTED MELANGE OF SANDALWOOD, VETIVER AND CEDAR, THE FINISH REACHES FANTASY-INSPIRING LEVELS OF INSATIABILITY.

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Tom Ford’s ‘Fougere D’Argent’

No other plant exudes quite the same feel of freshness and bright greenery than the fern. The genus is so expansive and diverse that almost every shade of green is found within it, as well as every texture and size. From the smallest and daintiest button fern to the grandest tree fern, the fern world is vast and varied. Yet across the board, each fern carries a certain old-world elegance and refinement that belies its hardier qualities.

Such a happy correlation comes with Tom Ford’s newest Private Blend pair: Fougere D’Ardent and Fougere Platine. The ‘fougere’ part is from the French word for fern, which is fitting for these verdant fragrances, which also have notes recalling traditional old-world barber-shops and the like. To my admittedly-failing memory, Ford has never done a classic gentlemen fragrance. I suppose an argument could be made that his first self-titled mainstream cologne could be counted as such, and I’ve long maintained that the original does veer into traditional Old Spice territory, and another mainstream offering, ‘Grey Vetiver’, was true to its timeless namesake. Most of his Private Blends, however, have been (more or less delightfully) all over the map. ‘Azure Lime’ was one that came closest to a typical gentleman’s cologne, with its fresh citrus take that veered into the masculine side of his Neroli Portofino line. 

His recent Vert series touched on a green forest; my favorite of the lot, Vert D’Encens, is a veritable walk through a pine grove on a warm autumn day. Heavenly. Fougere D’Ardent brings that ferny woodiness and couples it with a barber shop finesse, merging into a refined delight perfect for seasonal transitions. 

It’s something one’s grandfather might wear if he were especially jaunty and far ahead of his time. A classic with a bold flare, which is, when you consider most classics, what intrinsically makes something a classic. Containing components of some of the earliest gentlemen colognes, still used today as proof of their everlasting timelessness, this fougere fragrance is a clarion of elegance and sophistication.

Here’s the official description:

Fouere d’Argent is a bold reimagining of the classic fougere, a structure that traditionally revolves around lavender, oakmoss, and coumarin. With oakmoss no longer available, Tom Ford has re-worked the model in a provocative manner, substituting moss with Akigalawood, a Givaudan captive derived from patchouli that has a wonderfully spicy, woodsy bitterness. What emerges from Ford’s confident handling is a scent that smells truly masculine – earthy, herbaceous, and rich, with a radiantly spiced muskiness that billows around its wearer.

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Summer Memory: Cologne Chaos with Chris

It’s strange: some of my most fun cologne memories have to do with my friend Chris, who doesn’t even wear the stuff. The first two happened in the summer he first lived in San Francisco. He was part of some do-good mission that I never quite understood (Greenlining perhaps? Or was that Suzie? I don’t know… I understood as much about their jobs as they do about mine. Our friendships are such that work talk is gloriously omitted.) On that first visit to San Francisco, I decided to save some money and stay with Chris at his co-op, which was a mistake even in my early twenties. The long line of fraternities leading up to his place culminated in the shabby worse-for-wear building that housed his little room. The skunky smell of pot pervaded the entire place. Not that I minded in the least – I was more repelled by the unkempt nature of the surroundings, including its denizens, and the screeching that accompanied their mid-day fucking or murder scene – we could never be sure which it was.

Luckily, we didn’t spend much time in that space. I wanted to see the city, not some ramshackle pot-house near Berkeley. Chris left early the next day for work, while I slept in a bit until the noises of a strange place rustled me into alertness. I boarded the BART and made my way to Union Square. Chris had some more work to do and would meet up for cocktails and dinner later that afternoon. Now that I was back in civilization, and on firmer footing in familiar retail territory, I could find my own way.

Summer in San Francisco is usually cooler and more pleasant than summer in New York. Still, the days held their sun and their heat, and every city seems to store up its own inferno within the sidewalks and streets of cement and stone. On that afternoon, I went shop to air-conditioned shop, trying out clothing and shoes, both escaping from and celebrating the summer that was at hand.

A window display of ties and underwear drew me into Macy’s – a daunting department store for the uninitiated – a playground for me. I found three ties on a huge sale, and they hang in my closet to this very day, favorites for their style as much as for the memory they evoke.

Passing by the cologne counter, I was taken in by a new Issey Miyake’s Summer fragrance – big on citrus, and light and refreshing in every way. It was an antidote to the heavy patchouli and pot combination that weighed down the heat of a summer day in San Francisco. I tried some on and immediately fell in love. It was housed in a tall, slim container of green glass, and in those vintage days of being able to bring liquids in your carry-on I purchased a bottle. I wore it for the rest of the trip, including that afternoon’s meet-up with Chris in the Union Square Fairmont.

Prior to its renovation, the hotel lobby was a sky-high-ceilinged affair of rich woods and ornate furniture. With its high windows and sprawling scale, it was a magnificent room which would, we discovered years later, be sinfully renovated into a ghost of its former self. Back then, it was a beauty, and the perfect backdrop for a meeting of relatively new friends. Though we had gone to Puerto Rico together, I still didn’t really know Chris yet. But on that day, over a margarita and a Midori sour (don’t judge our younger selves) we forged the first bonds of a friendship that would inform and embolden the rest of our lives.

We sat in that magnificent room, looking out at the city and ruminating on all that two guys in their early-twenties could ruminate on, and in between the laughter and contemplation, the stories shared and learned, we found a certain solace there.

We meandered around Union Square in slightly tipsy fashion before finding a place for dinner, and just being in the company of a straight guy who accepted me for who I was cemented the happiness of that moment. It also gave me a sense of self-worth in ways that my own family couldn’t supply. It wasn’t that they ever maliciously withheld that, they just didn’t know how. For being there when others weren’t, Chris became a surrogate brother to me; I will always be grateful for that.

I would return to San Francisco a few weeks later, to close out that summer in surprise fashion, and on that trip a more light-hearted and frivolous cologne memory was made. A few blocks away from where Chris worked was a Ross store – and if you have the pleasure of not knowing what that kind of retail abomination is, consider yourself blessed. Think of it as a cross between Kmart, Walmart and Marshall’s, with a dash of the worst of Burlington Coat Factory thrown in for bad measure. I don’t know what brought us into the store, but I’m willing to bet it was Chris. We didn’t make it far. I stopped us at the entry cologne counter, where the saddest selection of Curve and Cool Water assembled in discounted dourness. After seeing that, I was done, but Chris was entranced by the young woman behind the counter, and in true, dedicated wing-man form, I stepped up and started sampling colognes. For the most part, I’m the shy guy, especially when compared to Chris, who will talk to any and everyone except the lady who catches his eye. At such times I have to be the one who initiates and keeps the conversation going, which is what I did on this day.

We had a quick side conversation and he told me to just buy something so they could keep talking. I balked slightly, but he was adamant, and in a moment of sheer stupidity/loyalty, I asked her for a small bottle of Cool Water – the absolute least of the evils on hand, considering their featured line of Brut – and quickly purchased it before anyone could see. (My only hope is that the gods of fine fragrance know my heart and realize, in my mortification, how sorry I am. In my defense, I never wore any of it.)

The funniest part in all this was how quickly we moved from insult to injury: Chris never took the next step to get the woman’s phone number. I stood in the doorway of a Ross’s ‘Dress For Less’ store with a goddamn bottle of Cool Water in my bag, and nothing to show for it but a fruitless exercise of embarrassment and shame, and a hilarious memory that we quickly added to the ever-growing bank of such hindsightful joys.

I’ll save our third fragrance memory – a smoky, peppery scent found in the fall at the Standard – for a more seasonally appropriate time… For now, I’m basking in the glow of Issey Miyake’s ‘Yuzu’ scent – an updated version of that long-ago summer scent from San Francisco – and smiling at the way we used to be.

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A Summer Frag That Rocks

Tom Ford has gotten better about providing some lighter fragrance fare for the summer months (Neroli Portofino, Mandarino di Amalfi, Costa Azzurra, Venetian Bergamot), but at his price points they still feel heavier than most scents out there, designed for a special occasion, not a half-day at the office before cocktails by the pool. Not that Frederic Malle’s line is any cheaper, but they’re often less intense, and a softer feel for summer is just what I was seeking when I stumbled into Barney’s with Andy for our anniversary weekend.

I’d been reading raves about Dominique Ropion’s ‘Cologne Indelebile’ and its lasting power, which for a neroli-based scent is a striking aspect, worthy of note. It announces its name definitively, without asking or requesting, content to state itself without any other option for dispute. Yet it does so in the most elegant and refined manner, not flopping excessively about with its sweetness, or departing after one whiff. Its neroli notes are reminiscent of any number of similarly-themed scents, but this has a surprisingly long life on my skin (consider it the powerhouse version of Tom Ford’s Neroli Portofino, with a more masculine slant).

Don’t ask me why I paired the packaging with a peony for these photos, other than the simple fact that I loved the pink juxtaposed beside the fiery orange. I suppose in certain peonies there is a hint of tea and spice, just as there is the slightest hint of such elements in the Cologne Indelebile, so perhaps they are bound together in ways not initially or outwardly detectable after all. Everything happens for a reason. There are no accidents.

For the summer of 2018, this is an auspicious beginning, and a signature scent that recalls summers past with anticipation and citrus vibrations of what’s yet to come. A nod to the before and after.

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Mood & Attitude

A crisp white shirt hangs on the door. A black leather belt lies coiled on the counter. A shelf lined with Tom Ford Private Blends tempts the eye and nose. Frederic Malle and Jean Claude Ellena are there too. The fragrances of a gentleman – refined and elegant – co-mingle in pleasant camaraderie. Remembering the fragrance counter at Barneys, when the collective scent of the store and all its olfactory offerings struck a resplendent chord of harmony but could not be narrowed down to a single source specimen, he smiles at what the years of procuring cologne have created: a personally-curated collection of scents.

He opens the glass door and carefully procures the bottle of ‘Bois D’Orage’. He brings the bottle to his nose and inhales, confirming the selection. Two quick sprays over his chest, where he will be the one to smell it the most. Some put it on their wrist or other pulse points. He keeps it closer to his heart; the accessory of fragrance has never been applied in the service of anyone other than himself.

Outside, dawn’s soft sky, echoed by some ridiculous late-season snow, lends a cool blue tone to the little square of light, buffered by a soft white shade. The bare branches of a dogwood allow a mostly unfettered view of the backyard. A late-to-arrive winter left most of the tan papery leaves of a Japanese maple intact and hanging onto their perches. The ruminations of a morning. The ablutions of a gentleman.

He tugs his sleeves and folds the French cuffs into place. A shiny new pair of cufflinks catches the light – silver crowns in facetious, fabulous fashion. He threads them through the slits then adjusts the sleeves as gentlemen have been fussing for ages. Sliding into a glen-plaid jacket, he pulls the sleeves out just enough to peek through the edge. A gentleman hints. A gentleman whispers. A gentleman holds his cards close to his chest.

Ladies with an attitude, fellows that were in the mood…

Stepping outside, a Prada bag slung over his shoulder, he inhales. Beyond the ‘Bois D’Orage’, a hint of spring rides on the breeze. No smile betrays his hope, and no one sees behind his Tom Ford aviators. He ducks into the waiting car and is whisked away.

Strike a pose, there’s nothing to it.

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