Category Archives: Ogunquit

Ogunquit Haiku

Along the Marginal Way, the breeze is biting but the sun is warm. We walk along this well-traversed stretch of shoreline, pausing to admire the rocky coastline, waiting to absorb the beauty of the day. A couple of seagulls fly overhead, while other water birds float in the distance. On the sea, shards of sunlight bounce off the tips of waves – the effect is of some sparkling blanket, undulating in the darkest of blues.

There is a sense of grounding whenever I find myself on the crux of land and ocean, and upon planting my feet and feeling the power of the place, I look up into the sky and beam at the soaring of the gulls.

In the midst of our annual fall trip here, our Marginal Way walk, en route to lunch in Perkins Cove, is a calm highlight in a long weekend of calming moments. If you stand there for a while, listening to the waves lull with their lullaby-like dirge, you will feel the spell the sea casts on all who pause to hear it. It’s a spell that the land echoes, with its rocky soil that affords only the hardiest of roses a foothold to unfurl their rugged beauty. Even at this late stage of the season, a few Rosa rugosa blooms manage to perfume the salty air.

By the time we round the juniper-shaded corner to Perkins Cove, my stomach is ready for a warm bowl of chowder, and maybe a fish fry. The cove is quiet today, the water relatively still, mirroring the sky and begging for a haiku.

Indigo ocean

beneath playful sky hosting

non-threatening clouds.

Continue reading ...

Ogunquit Riches

Some people think spring is where you’ll get a riot of color, but when it comes to richness of shades, I’ve always known that autumn brings saturation like you’ve never seen in the early cool days of the growing season. It’s as if the removal of such direct sunlight allows colors to develop more fully, with far less fading. Flowers just glow more brilliantly at this time of the year. Here, a few of the floral sights in Ogunquit in the golden hour of the gardening calendar. I find them just as striking as the first blooms of spring.

Continue reading ...

Whimsical OGT

The quick, photo-heavy posts of our latest jaunt to Ogunquit begin here, with some lovely shots of one of my favorite stores in that fair town: Spoiled Rotten. It’s one of those neat retail establishments that comprise almost an entire house, where tiny rooms open onto others, creating a jewel-box-like enchantment that is matched only by the exquisiteness of the gifts on display. The entry way opens immediately to a stair-case that leads to rooms filled with candles and kitchen accoutrements, artistic works in glass and ceramic, stationary, potpourri, colorful quilted bags, and all sorts of gorgeous wreckage that collectively casts a most pleasant spell.

For someone’s who’s done his retail time, the mere thought of doing an inventory in such a packed place both exhausts and impresses me. Godspeed, good people. In the meantime, the rest of us will reap beautiful enjoyment from the sights, scents, and sounds on the scene.

The locality plays a major role in the items and merchandise on display, and much of it ties into Ogunquit or Maine, or the sultry seasonal fare of New England. To that end, something is always changing and evolving in the store, and every time we visit there are new delights to be discovered.

Echoes of the sea, refractions of the light, and every conceivable charm of the season find expression here.

From the outside porch that spills over with gourds and squash and fall amusement, to the innermost room that hides the most gorgeous velvet pumpkin, Spoiled Rotten glimmers with the whimsical rustic charm that marks the best of Ogunquit.

Continue reading ...

‘Sister Act’ at the Ogunquit Playhouse

Who knew a group of singing nuns could be so hellishly entertaining? And who could have foretold that a movie like ‘Sister Act’, while filled with its own musical moments, could make such a deeply satisfying transition to the stage with an entirely new score? The Ogunquit Playhouse is putting on a new production of the Tony-nominated show and it’s nothing short of a revelatory religious experience.

Re-set in the late 1970’s, the music is a pastiche of soul, disco and gospel, written by the celebrated Alan Menken (who was largely responsible for putting Disney back on the musical map with ‘The Little Mermaid‘, ‘Beauty and the Beast’, and ‘Aladdin‘ – all of which have gone on to become Broadway shows.) The show itself takes a moment or two to build, but once Deloris is back in the habit and raising the roof with the rousing ‘Raise Your Voice’ every board and block of the Ogunquit Playhouse vibrates with sheer joy and show-biz salvation.

It turns out that soaring gospel anthems and Latin prayers form the perfect melodic structure for the injection of a disco beat. As built from the ground up by the Playhouse, this production boasts a winning cast, and the two leads are largely why it’s such a stunning success. Rashidra Scott gives a devilishly-good rafter-raising performance as Deloris, injecting the role made famous by Whoopi Goldberg with a dose of glamour and a wondrously-gifted vocal prowess. After understudying the role on Broadway, Ms. Scott brings exuberance and energy to her Ms. Cartier, and displays the absolute voice of an angel – a powerfully-throated angel who can bring the roof down with a growl from the base of her register to a full-fledged peel of her highest note, and everything in between is just as heavenly.

Her counterpart, the equally-divine Jennifer Allen as Mother Superior, reigns with an iron fist but a heaven-sent voice. Her Act Two number ‘Haven’t Got A Prayer’ delivers moments of comedic gold shot through with a self-doubting pathos. It gives her character the empathetic pull that drives the tension, and ultimate resolution, of the relationship between her and Deloris.  Taking us along on the fascinating transformation of a woman toiling with inner-turmoil and her own faith, Ms. Allen has the less showy role, but as she jockeys for power and respect in different, and just as compelling, ways, she forms a sparkling foil for Deloris. They challenge each other, and turn out the better for it.

Having missed out on the original Broadway run (which starred the amazing Patina Miller, who went on to seduce audiences, and a Tony Award, in ‘Pippin’), I was pleasantly surprised to see that this musical went deeper than the film, highlighting the friendship and genuine bond between the women (particularly in the moving title song) as well as the internal fight within Deloris herself – in which her show business dreams battle with her angelic guardians.

By the end, Mother Superior echoes one of the first beliefs of Deloris: “All things being even, here’s what I believe in – Nothing matters more than love.” Hokey, perhaps, but truer than any religious dogma that was ever uttered. When you put it to music like this, and let it pour forth from the vocal instruments of such a talented cast, the results are transcendently spiritual. ‘Sister Act’ is one hell of a good show, and I’d wager the Big JC himself would be tapping his foot to it too.

{‘Sister Act’ runs until June 21, 2015 at the Ogunquit Playhouse.}

Continue reading ...

Springing Forth From Ogunquit

Our time in Maine had come to a close, but with it I was holding the calm and restorative peace the town always produced close to my heart. As the unofficial start to the summer season, Memorial Day weekend could not have been more perfect – weather-wise, food-wise, and soul-wise. We arrived to a lovely gift from our fellow Ogunquit-lover Eileen – a gorgeous piece of pottery and a heartwarming note of welcome. Along with the scent and pleasant visage of lilacs everywhere, it felt like the whole town was once again open for merriment.

Newly-planted flowers were already bursting with blooms, while returning perennials finally felt warm enough to begin their show too.

One of the most important things for this Dadbod in the making was the food, and this trip provided a number of delicious meals, including the one picture here from Five-O. it began with the most amazing octopus dish – fresh, tender, and perfectly grilled, it sat on a bed of fiddle-head ferns and was so good it turned Andy into a new octopus fan. The chicken that followed, on a creamy bed of mushroom risotto, was nothing short of miraculous. Don’t even get me started on the olive oil and orange cake that I splurged on for dessert. My pants still have not forgiven me.

Along with the food, there was no shortage of entertainment on hand, starting with a phenomenal set (and personal lap dance) by Hedda Lettuce at Maine Street. My thighs are still tingling.

There was also the magic of the Ogunquit Playhouse, where ‘Sister Act’ was raising the roof with a glorious production.

It’s there through June 21, so get your tickets and book your room at the Ogunquit Beach Inn now.

The weather was so perfect, the weekend flew by too quickly, but even when it rains that’s the way it goes. Ogunquit is magical in that respect. Maine is a state of mind. Maine is the way life should be.

Until we meet again…

Continue reading ...

An Initially Unwelcome Surprise

Spiders usually scare the shit out of me. Almost as much as house centipedes (truly the ghastliest of all creatures put on this great good earth.) Yet every once in a while, when a spider is cute and small enough to not pose a threat, I’ll think of ‘Charlotte’s Web’ and not scream like a baby when I see one. That was the case when this ghostly little arachnid surprised me as I was taking photos of a ruffled pansy. I didn’t see it at first, so intent was my gaze upon the colorful petals, but just as I was leaning further in to snap the shot, I saw it walk forward a bit.

Startled more than scared, I took another photo and watched as it did a little dance. Backlit by the sun, it was an almost translucent white – hopefully no one identifies as some poisonous thing that could have killed me with a fang-transmitted dose of venom. And if you do, please don’t tell me. The best part of a spider is everything I don’t know.

Continue reading ...

My Pearls Are My Life: Not For Sale

Sometimes the perfect blog post title can be found on a tag in an antique store. Such is the case here, where a mannequin posed with the titular phrase. A bit of punctuation tweaking and suddenly things took on a deeper meaning. Blacksmith’s Antiques is filled with such hidden art, and some startlingly spooky items as well. Dolls like these are creepy on so many levels, I don’t understand how our children aren’t more disturbed. There is an eerie beauty to their dilapidated state, though, and a sadness that hints of neglect and age and the passing of time and innocence.

We all suffer similar effects, even if they’re mostly internal. I don’t know anyone who could stand to face a Dorian Gray-like portrait that told a physical tale of what they were thinking throughout their life. Let it be writ on the fading visage of these dolls rather than anything else.

Here is where we discover whatever happened to Baby Jane. Here we see who was afraid of Virginia Wolff. Here is the embodiment of soiled dreams and dingy nightmares, the stuff of hourglass sand and every thing that ever had a price tag attached to it.

The past can be a sad and scary place, and even happy moments can’t last forever. Time conquers and takes all, including the most trifling memento.

Time devours the present and prepares its great gaping mouth for the future. Emotionless, it swallows us up, and the only thing to do is give in to its relentless march, easing into its unyielding formation.

When you make your peace with time, all else falls into place.

It is the land that flows by the river, and the world that spins by your ear, as a pair of dancing mice sings a sweet song of youth.

Continue reading ...

A Secluded Ogunquit Space

One of my favorite haunts was in full-bloom during this recent trip to Ogunquit. It’s a woodland garden nestled in an out-of-the-way spot near the Ogunquit Heritage Museum. No one seems to know about the area, and I’m glad, as it affords one of the only spaces of solitude during a bustling fair-weather holiday weekend. The back entrance to it is framed by a pair of white bleeding hearts, and inside a path meanders along informal gardens filled with trillium, poppies, lily of the valley, and other shade-loving bloomers. My time there is always calm and quiet, and to lend a bit of that silence to this post, my commentary will end here.

Continue reading ...

The Lilacs of Maine

One of the perks of a late spring season in Ogunquit is getting to experience the lilacs all over again. On many years, Memorial Day arrives too late, and follows too much warm weather, for the lilacs to hang on until we get there. This time around, they were in full bloom throughout the entire town. Everywhere we went their delicious scent formed a perfectly-perfumed backdrop. The sweetness carried on every breeze, and even at night when they hid in the darkness, we could tell they were there.

No other flower conveys memories of childhood – and spring – as powerfully as the lilac. It’s also come to signify our time in Ogunquit, as there is a long row of the New England beauties along the driveway of our guesthouse. Innkeepers Greg and Mike always include a bouquet of them if they’re in bloom, and so our room is filled with the glorious scent as well.

Fragrance is one of the most powerful memory-triggers of the human experience. Music comes in a close second for me, but certain scents have a way of bringing me back to moments more effectively and meaningfully than anything else. (There’s a certain corner of McNulty School that always brings back to the terror of grade school with its stale odor, and my reaction to it is frighteningly visceral.) The memories that lilacs brings up are much happier. Hopeful. The stuff of spring – and the start of a new season.

Continue reading ...

Ogunquit Quietude

Some Ogunquit visits are loud and exciting, filled with noise and fireworks and non-stop motion. Other visits are quieter and looser, subdued by beauty, good food and lovely weather, like a balm upon the soul when the rest of the world gets a little too noisy and chaotic. For this trip, after such a torturous winter, we opted for the latter. I wanted quiet and peace, with room for naps, and an unrushed pace that allowed the town to wash over our weariness, gently restoring and replenishing what the winter had drained.

It began on the Marginal Way, and both of our walks along that gorgeous path happened to be at times when the tide was going out. There were no thundering waves crashing upon the rocks, no relentless wind that made talking and listening difficult. It was as if the ocean was lulling the hesitant back into trusting her again, and it worked.

Flowers joined in the gentle tugging at the heart. Much of the plant life was late, but that worked out well; we often miss the lilacs but now they were in full bloom (more on them later). Other things were just beginning, such as this brilliant blue camassia (the flowers of which are usually gone by the time we arrive). Creeping phlox was a carpet of riotous color, while apple and plum blossoms waved fragrant white flags against the sky.

For a writer and observer (and, ahem, blogger) it is sometimes difficult to get out of one’s head-space, to not worry about documenting and retaining what is being seen and experienced, but when I’m in Ogunquit, I remember to let go and inhabit the moment. It takes a while to be wholly present again, to be completely mindful of where I am and not think about the future.

I walk out along the rocks, peering into tide pools and the gorgeous green ribbons of seaweed gently undulating with each lapping wave. Bits of iridescent sea shells sparkle in the sun-drenched water, and the warm light of that setting orb sets the rocks aflame.

I pause and look out over the ocean, and Andy takes the only photos that will be taken of me for the rest of the weekend. (There will be more than enough of me to come in the next few months… you have been warned.) For now, we examine a feather at the foot of the Marginal Way, as indicative of the beauty and the quiet I’ve sought for so long. It is as lovely a beginning as any.

Continue reading ...

Another Season in Ogunquit Begins

A tiny and quiet start to our long weekend in Ogunquit is provided by these flowers – each of which is no bigger than the nail on my pinky finger. They are likely missed by most walkers on the Marginal Way, but I know where to look for them, and they’ve lingered there for the better part of a decade. How something so small and delicate-looking can be hardy enough to survive the wilds of the Maine coast is a wonderful mystery of the world.

They flutter in the wind, yet never falter, and their beauty is hidden among the rocks and roughly-hewn junipers. They signify the start to summer in a seaside resort town, and in their quiet, soft-spoken whisper, they are the perfect beginning to our lazy weekend in Ogunquit.

Continue reading ...

A Lap Dance by Hedda Lettuce

Certain drag queens are institutions. Indelibly intertwined with an image and a name, in person they can feel like some Hollywood superstar come to life. Some are known by a single name – and some by a single verdant color. Hedda Lettuce unfurls her leafy brand of sass this weekend at Maine Street in Ogunquit, and there’s nothing more entertaining than seeing a queen at the top of her game.

She first came to most of our attention with a scene-stealing turn on ‘Sex and the City’ and an epic Madonna-intro at the MTV Music Awards. More exciting to me was the time she once graciously posed for a photo while hawking tickets for her show on a rare sultry day in Provincetown. She was witty and fun and completely professional, and one got the sense that this was serious business for her. Such dedication to a role and a craft was admirable.

All of that was but a flirty prelude for my encounter with the green goddess last night, in which she dedicated a song to me, ‘Fuck Me Baby’ (based on my crossed-arms stance) and topped it off with a dirty grind in the form of a lap-dance. As thrilling as that was, it was the content and seamless flow of the evening that most impressed.

A self-described “old-school” drag queen, her Bette Davis references were caught by some of us, while those who have been woefully untouched by Ms. Davis could appreciate the modern-day no-holds-barred raunchiness of other topical moments. The recent happy events in Ireland made a timely backdrop to a marriage-equality anthem, and though she professed to be in ragged voice due to the allergies of New England, she sounded in fine form. The drag queen who can actually sing seems to be a rare and dying breed, and those who do it are all the more astounding for it.

She pokes fun at herself good-naturedly throughout the evening, claiming she’s made it this far on her cheekbones and lighting alone, but no one who has lasted this long and can still command an entire room for an hour lacks of talent in any way. Finishing with a rousing ‘Jesus Take the Wheel’ she closes out her first night of a triumphant return to Ogunquit in rollicking fashion.

Continue reading ...

In the Maine

This marks our 15th year visiting Ogunquit, Maine but I still feel the same excitement and thrill in going as I did on that very first trip. On that memorable weekend, it was late summer and the town was switching into slower fall gear, but it was as enchanting as ever. The next year we switched over to kicking it off in spring for Memorial Day weekend, and then closing it out in fall over Columbus Day weekend. Of course, it is this weekend which is my favorite. For all the loveliness of fall, there will always be something better about spring. The whole of summer lies await ahead of us. There is more magic in anticipation than recollection.

That said, a few looks back never hurt anyone, and there have been many at Maine over the years.

There is a peace and contentment that settles within instants of finding my way back to Ogunquit.

When it rains, there are still enchantments to be found along the wet shore.

There is even some male nudity on display if you know where to look and when.

Even when I’m not there, I keep a little bit of it in me.

Continue reading ...

Last Minute Vacation Reprieve: Ogunquit, To Be Continued

There comes a window of time on every last day of vacation when I find myself alone in contemplation. If we are in Ogunquit, that’s usually a quick spa along the start of the Marginal Way. This fall trip proved no exception, even if it began disastrously, and stayed that way right up until the very end.

On our last morning in town, my back just starting to feel a bit better, and my stomach resting from a marathon of somersaults, I walked back to the Marginal Way to take in the sun, drink in the salt air, and seek wisps of Rosa rugosa on the wind. I looked out upon the Atlantic, feeling that familiar terror of being so small on the edge of something so vast.

I made a wish and a prayer. It was promise and a pact to return again, to walk The Way when the spring was upon us. It was the hope of making it through the winter relatively unscathed. There were stones that had lasted far more than a season here, and they provided the only inspiration I needed.

I walked back along the path where the flowers that had so entranced me stood in their unconcerned glory. ‘Serves him right,’ they might be snickering. ‘That’ll teach him to take unauthorized photos on our less-than-flattering days,’ they may have whispered. Undeterred, I snapped again. I will always take a chance on taking the beauty with me. I smiled ruefully at their nodding heads, and shook my own at my folly. You win, Nature, you always win… but I’m going to show the world something, and I’m going to do my best to do right by you.

Continue reading ...

Felled By a Few Flowers

In 1994, I had a memorable (or not-so-memorable) bout with mono that may have been the sickest I’ve been thus far in my life. The doped-up surreal journey of that experience, imbued by Rudyard Kipling’s ‘Kim’ which I was reading at the time, left me in much the same out-of-sorts condition from which I awoke on our third day in Ogunquit. Selfishly, I rejoiced that I could hear rain. It would be bearable if it rained and I was stuck inside. I wouldn’t miss it as much. I would’t mind so dearly.

It was with admittedly-childish dismay that the rain soon cleared, and the sun came out to torture me through the half-closed blinds. I was too upset to take much food, and nothing was agreeing with me anyway. The next couple of days passed thusly, my fall vacation in Maine sliding through my fingers, tantalizing glimpses of bright blue sky passing by the window as another day departed. Hints of flaming foliage fluttered in quiet, a gay pantomime of laughter that mocked my immobile state.

Eventually, I forced myself up, determined to make it out to our last dinner in town. I walked shakily past the entrance to the Marginal Way before arriving at dinner, but the lack of food for the previous few days, and the combined effects of such unprescribed pain-killers did not make for a dinner through which I could sit, and before my salad even arrived I had to head back to the bed and breakfast to climb into bed. The vacation was truly over.

Night closed upon me, and I let sleep come. There was nothing else to do. The next day we had to depart.

Here are a few more flower pics I managed to snap before my back went out. Looking at them, I wonder if it was worth it. The chance grab at capturing such beauty. Would it have been better to look from afar, to take them in and appreciate the moment without trying to still it, to steal it, to take a bit of it back? Or was this the reward of such beauty, the ransom for a ruined vacation? I haven’t decided yet…

Continue reading ...