Category Archives: Cologne

A Fragrance for Bedtime

In addition to all the Tom Ford excitement on the olfactory front, I’ve also found a summer bridge fragrance from Hermes. This is ‘Un Jardin apres la Mousson‘ which I’m told translates to “the garden after the monsoon”. It falls somewhere between a traditional cologne and a traditional perfume, managing the welcome feat of being both masculine and feminine (though it errs on the lady side of things, which is something I like for the summer months). A few of the fragrances in the Jardin line are quite nice, but I’ve found all except this one to be slightly too sweet and cloying for more than a passing sample.

While reading up on recent cologne reviews, I noticed that some people mentioned wearing certain fragrances to bed to get the most enjoyment out of them. At first it seemed like a silly thing. Why waste all that expensive sillage on a place where, at least in this house, only one other person will get to smell it? Then I realized that it was the perfect moment and place for it, and marveled at my life-long dismissal of such a decadent, self-luxuriating indulgence.

I started with this offering from Hermes, which is light enough so as not to be too stimulating or distracting, and soft enough to nestle perfectly into the folds of a silk robe or the brittle pages of a favorite book. As if I needed another moment of self-indulgence… but I’ve found that those we think are the most self-serving during the day tend to forget themselves at night.

Continue reading ...

Birthday Gift by Tom Ford

Calm down, my birthday’s not for another month, but based on this news you may want to start putting away some money now. (I’m talking to you, Sugar Daddy.) Tom Ford has just released four new Private Blends – the Atelier d’Orient collection. And for the first time in a while I’m quite excited by the way these fragrances are sounding. (Last year’s Jardin Noir series was a big disappointment, and I couldn’t bring myself to buy one of them.) This Asian-inspired collection sounds much more intriguing.

The two that have captured my focus are Rive d’Ambre and Plum Japonais, described by the company as follows:

Rive d’Ambre is inspired by the ritual of offering citrus fruits as gifts while being colored by Tom Ford’s own sense of sensuality bringing added warmth to the perfume, an Eau de Cologne with a nostalgic slant. Notes includes essential oils of bergamot, lemon and bitter orange together with tarragon, cardamom, green mint essence. An unexpected twist has been added in the guises of benzoin and pear tree; cognac oil, tolu balsam create a golden aura which is amplified by the amber note.

Plum Japonais is the scent in the lineup which is said to be dedicated to perfume connoisseurs, which can be interpreted as being the more difficult opus of the four. Ford was struck by the interesting scent and texture as well as high symbolism of ume in both Japan and China. Notes feature saffron, cinnamon bark from Laos, immortelle, Sawara cypress – ume treated like a velvety liqueur – Japanese camelia blossoms, agar wood, amber, benzoin from Laos, fir balsam absolute, and vanilla infusion.

Of course, I’m not overlooking Shanghai Lily either, as that is said to contain notes of bitter orange and pink peppercorn, two of my current obsessions (in cocktails and fragrances both). At any rate, I’ll be checking these out next time I’m at Neiman Marcus (an excruciatingly long three weeks from now!) Luckily the only thing I enjoy more than a good pay-off is a nice long stretch of anticipation.

Continue reading ...

David Beckham Strips Off Shirt, Sprays Cologne

As much as I love David Beckham, I’ve never been into any of his products. His underwear proved a bit of a boring let-down, and I have yet to try one of his colognes. (If it stands beside the Brut display at CVS, you’ve already lost me.) Does his new commercial touting a new cologne change anything? Not really. But it’s nice to see him without a shirt again.

Continue reading ...

Eight And A Half…

It’s getting more and more rare to find a real Renaissance man these days, but if such a creature exists, it comes in the form of Matthew Camp. From go-go-dancer to designer, Mr. Camp has dabbled in a little bit of everything, and all of it quite well. Even so, I had to raise an eyebrow when he announced he had a fragrance coming out. (I wasn’t even a fan of Madonna’s entrance into the perfume market.) However, upon sampling his new scent, I’m happy to report that it’s everything it has billed itself as: sexy, smoldering, masculine, and edgy.

Reminiscent of a harder, more raw version of Tom Ford’s Tuscan Leather (no mean feat in itself), 8.5 is a thick, rich, musky scent that lingers with its sexy sillage, announcing itself not subtly, but with a big, bold, crotch-in-your-face stance perfectly befitting its aggressive nature. It’s not a scent for the squeamish or prurient. Like its creator, 8.5 is impossible to ignore, a ‘concocktion’ that seems to originate not only in the listed ingredients of Black leather and Earthly cedars, but from something more primal ~ a place deep within the nether regions, where the darkest, most wild desires are hidden, waiting for release. It’s an entrancing and impressive entry into the fragrance world, perfectly capturing the grit and glamour of New York City night-life.

Mr. Camp has made a career of surprise, of staying one step ahead of where the world thinks he should be. This latest endeavor is no exception, combining the dark sensuality he naturally exudes, with the playful, sexy side his fans have always embraced. And if you’ve ever wanted to get an up-close-and-personal whiff of Mr. Camp himself, this may be the best way to do it.

 

Continue reading ...

A Scent for Spring (In the Orange Bag)

Aside from my rather minor obsession with Tom Ford’s Private Blends, I do most of my day-to-day cologne shopping at Sephora. (Mr. Ford’s Blends are only found at the hoity-toity spots like Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue.) So when seeking out a new spring fragrance, I perused the offerings of Hermés while at Sephora, and came upon their Eau de gentiane blanche. It was similar to Frederic Malle’s Angéliques Sous La Pluie, with slightly longer staying power, and though I thought long and hard over the Eau de pamplemousse rose, (I do love grapefruit), I decided this was a little more unique.

When Andy and I were making our anniversary stroll across the street at the Public Garden, I made sure to take the Boylston way home and stop in the Hermés store to see if they offered the gentiane blanche. They did, and for the same cost as the bottle at Sephora. We also saw a horse’s saddle for $6700, but without a horse it seemed a terrible waste. A lime green suit jacket would have been perfect, but when I saw that the accompanying sweater was going for a cool $1950, I didn’t bother asking about the jacket. I’d be lucky to wrangle the cologne off as an anniversary gift. And lucky I was. Thank you, Andy!

Continue reading ...

Tom Ford, Naked (With Tan Lines)

Andy was kind enough to give me the gift of fragrance for Valentine’s Day, and I narrowed my selection down to two of Tom Ford‘s Private Blend scents: Ombre de Hyacinth and Oud Wood. This past weekend in Boston I made the final decision, and chose the Oud Wood, filling in the seasonal fragrance gap I’ve had in Mr. Ford’s line.

Here are the Private Blends I currently have, and when I like to wear them, more or less:

  • Arabian Night ~ September
  • Amber Absolute ~ October
  • Japon Noir ~ November
  • Santal Blush ~ December/Holidays
  • Oud Wood ~ February/March
  • Neroli Portofino ~ May/June/July
  • Lavender Palm ~ July/August

Obviously there is bound to be some overlapping, and these are not strict guidelines, just general ones, as my cologne choices tend to be dictated by weather and season more than name. Additionally, the beauty of the Private Blends is that many are designed to work well in combination with each other, and it is the only cologne line that I’ve found in which this is true. (I’ve never mixed or matched anything else because it gets overpowering – which is sometimes the over-the-top point of Mr. Ford.)

Continue reading ...

A New Cologne for the Restlessness of Winter

After being spoiled by Tom Ford and his decadent Private Blends fragrance collection, I find it very difficult to find a new cologne. But the winter doldrums could only be kicked by a new scent, so I made my way to Sephora to see what had come in since the holidays. Someone had recommended the new Bulgari, and though most recommendations that come from social media are met with enthusiasm then disappointment, this one was a resounding good choice. So well did it wear, in fact, that I ended up taking a bottle of it home. It’s the perfect transition fragrance from February to March – light enough to draw in the first faint breath of Spring, and crisp enough to match the chill that has not quite gone.

Continue reading ...

My Christmas Wish List 2012

This year I’ve been a little lax in coming up with a Christmas Wish List, mostly because what was once important to me changed a bit over the summer, and I’m still in the processing mode. In the past I hated asking for practical things – it seemed like such a waste of a gift. Who wants a new set of tires or a working sink when you can get a frivolous fascinator or full-length opera cape? That said, practicality has its merits, and in these penny-pinching times it makes more sense to invest in something we can put to use instead of a clothing conversation piece that is so impressive you can only wear it once. To that end, I’m asking for two things that are the most boring and mundane objects in the world, but ones that, if employed and chosen properly, can be the starting point of elegance and beauty: a bed and a television. Both would be for the Boston condo bedroom – a Queen bed to make the trips with Andy more comfortable, and a flat screen television so we can finally get rid of the mid 90’s eyesore that takes up a good third of the room (and to please both Andy and my father when they deign to visit).

It turns out I still have an affinity for pretty bags and lovely scents, so I’m putting up a pair of items that would bring me some joy and happiness, because I can always be as deep as a puddle on a dry, sunny day. The first is a stand-by: one of Tom Ford’s Private Blend fragrances – ‘Champaca Absolute’. I was debating it while picking out a birthday cologne with Andy, but I wasn’t quite ready to give up the Amber Absolute I had my eye on (and rightfully so as that was soon-after discontinued). Now, I’m ready.

While Mr. Ford’s Private Blends are on the pricey side, it’s still a bit less than Frederic Malle’s ‘Dans Tes Bras’ from Barney’s, which would be my second choice. (A hint for those unwilling/unable to shell out the $240 price for the bottle: you can request three 30 ml travel size bottles for about $90. They don’t tell you that upfront, and the bitchy guys on the 2nd level of the Boston store at Copley Place will help you even less, so stick to the friendlier perfume ladies downstairs.)

As for bags, all my life I have wanted a leopard tote, and DKNY has finally produced a simple version without the fancy buckles and gaudy chains that accompany so many bags (really, the leopard alone is gaudy enough). This one is on sale at Lord & Taylor right now (and would make a much more economical substitute for the Christian Louboutin and Jimmy Choo leopard shoes that run much higher… see, I’m not unreasonable.)

And if all else fails, there’s always my Amazon Wish List

Now… what is it that YOU want for Christmas?

Continue reading ...

The Sexy Sillage of Tom Ford

It was the fragrance I wore when I put on that plaid suit, and since that time it has signified October and the height of Fall. Tom Ford‘s ‘Amber Absolute’ – one of his Private Blends – is my scent for this month. With its smoky amber base, and hints of incense and patchouli, it perfectly embodies this time of the year, when fragrance can afford to be a bit heavier, like our coats and sweaters. This one is a warm one indeed – it smolders and crackles – it practically smokes, but it maintains a grounded earthiness. Best of all it lasts for literally days. Forget the ethereal wisps of summer, this bad boy is here for the duration.

Sadly, and incomprehensibly, ‘Amber Absolute’ was discontinued a few months ago (Andy got me the last bottle at the Boston Saks Fifth Avenue for my birthday) but can still be found on eBay and in some stores, so get it while the getting is good.

Continue reading ...

Tom Ford: Dirty Birdy

These are a few of the eye-popping ads used earlier this year for Tom Ford’s ‘Neroli Portofino’ Private Blend. As the title of this post suggests, Mr. Ford is one of the best at getting the most provocative and smutty still shots out of his models, but his products get you oh-so-clean, and more sweetly-smelling than the most potent orange blossom, so in the end it’s a wash. Thank you, enjoy the veal! (And no, I was not talking about her boobs.)

Continue reading ...

Spice Up Your Life

Tom Ford’s latest cologne, Noir, is set to debut in October, and while I’m not the biggest fan of traditional Noir scents, this one may make me a believer. Billed as having top notes of bergamot, verbena, caraway, pink pepper and violet; middle notes of black pepper, nutmeg, tuscan iris, geranium, bulgarian rose and clary sage; and base notes of opoponax, amber, indonesian patchouli leaf, vetiver, civet and vanilla – this may very well be spicy concoction that takes over for Viktor & Rolf’s ‘Spicebomb’ this Fall season.

Continue reading ...

The Unsniffed Scent ~ My New Cologne

No, it’s not some mash-up of the Spicegirls and Tom Jones – ‘Spicebomb’ is the new cologne by Viktor & Rolf – a sort of male counterpart to their successful ‘Flowerbomb’ perfume. When the reviews first started trickling in, it sounded like something I would love – bergamot, a bit of grapefruit, and pink pepper to begin with – then a base of tobacco with a touch of leather. However, I’ve read of fragrances that included all my favorite scents, only to be disappointed, if not outright horrified by the end result (hello Prada).

On my last trip to Boston (and, I will admit, procuring Spicebomb was part of the impetus for that visit) I hit up Saks Fifth Avenue, which I had read was offering it for sale. The salesperson there crushed my dreams with one fell swoop when she said it would not in stock in Boston until August. I didn’t think it would be at Neiman Marcus, but I tried, and I even made a feeble, half-hearted stop at Barney’s on the off-chance they had something… all to no avail. The city of Boston did not have Spicebomb, and it didn’t look they were getting it anytime soon.

Now, here comes the ‘Do as I say, not as I do’ part of the blog. Normally, I strongly advise against buying cologne scent unsniffed. First off, because you will never really know what it smells like no matter how many fanciful terms of description they can conjure. Second, even if you have smelled it in a magazine or a sample, it will smell slightly different on your own skin, and everyone’s body chemistry produces varying olfactory reactions. Third, it is far too easy to fall prey to advertising (and yes, I’m talking about the debacle of the naked guy for Zino by Davidoff, the worst fragrance I ever bought and never used).

Still, when all the reviews sound like the perfect concoction of what I most want in a cologne, and the fact that I was not averse to Flowerbomb, I took a chance and ordered a bottle online. I know, I know… but it’s only good advice if I don’t take it. When it arrived from Nordstrom, I pulled the pin of the grenade bottle and prepared for the worst. Happily, luckily, and giddily, I loved what I smelled.

But don’t ever do what I just did. Because I said so.
Continue reading ...

Grand Neroli Among Wild Sweet Pea

This is my current summer fragrance – Grand Neroli by Atelier – as seen surrounded by a few sprays of a wild sweet pea (fresh from the garden). This cologne has the distinctive orange blossom scent of Neroli, that is both light and delicate enough for summer. I debated getting Eau d’orange verte by Hermes, but held off on that due to reports on poor sillage. I may try their Eau de Pamplemousse Rose next June, but since we’re almost into July the rose cusp has long since passed. It’s better to be ahead of the curve than behind it.

Much like Lee Bailey’s substituting Digitalis for delphiniums, this was the closest I could get to Tom Ford’s Neroli Portofino from his Private Blend series (and about one third of the cost). Mr. Ford’s version of Neroli is the only one of his Private Blend series that I would consider a good fit in the summer months – the rest of that line is too wonderfully rich and heavy, in a good way, but far more suited to Fall or Winter. In the summer I want my cologne to be light – the heat can be heavy enough. Coupled with the hefty price tag, Ford’s heavenly fragrance will have to wait.

It turns out that Atelier’s Grand Neroli is more than a fine substitute, and may actually be preferable to TF, considering its lighter touch. I don’t know why, but Neroli reminds me of various summer moments – the sound of cool, trickling water in an otherwise-silent space, the still bedroom in Boston as the sun slants across the floor, a sweetly-scented blossom floating in a snifter of water. The moments are half-remembered, half-imagined – like so much of summer seems once it’s passed. For now, it’s just begun.

Continue reading ...

Sunkissed and Scent-sational

Orange. It’s not everyone’s cup of tea. Andy’s not a fan, but he’ll have to deal, as I’ve decreed orange to be the accent color for my Spring/Summer season. It starts with a Jack Spade bag and a complementary card holder, and goes down to a hot pair of argyle socks. I’m looking at orange shoes next. Yes, I have one pair already, but they’re an old Polo set from long ago. So that’s the revolutionary costume plan for the season. Orange. (And lavender.)

Now if I can only decide upon an anniversary fragrance. It’s been narrowed down to a couple of Tom Ford Private Blend scents (Champaca Absolute, Neroli Portofino, or Oud Wood), an Hermes, something by Frederic Malle, or a Creed (Silver Mountain or Imperial Millisime). Last year I wore Creed’s Green Irish Tweed for the wedding weekend, but I think I may want to save that for the super special occasions. Either way, it’s an exciting time for citrus.

Continue reading ...

California Dreaming: Lavender Palm by Tom Ford

All of my California dreams are coming true, at least according to what I can smell. The fabulous Natasha at Tom Ford, Beverly Hills – was good enough to send me a sample of Ford’s latest Private Blends fragrance, ‘Lavender Palm’, the elusive new scent currently only available at the Beverly Hills flagship store. It’s like a little bit of California came eastward on a spring-time zephyr, bestowing the promise of sun and sultry nights, of lavender fields and swaying palm fronds. A kiss of the ocean is there too, along with a few bright citrus accents.

Certain things have the power to transport one to another time and place – music and fragrance first among them – and ‘Lavender Palm’ is the perfect encapsulation of everything that California might be. Since I’ve never been to Los Angeles, I can’t speak for that fine area, but San Francisco and San Diego have never failed to enchant with their gloriously laid-back West Coast glamour. A day’s journey along the Pacific Coast – the salty sea spray, the groves of eucalyptus, the surfers and the sharks – and all the while the lilting gilt of lavender, lulling us along on our peaceful journey.

Like those little bottles with a few grains of sand and a couple of tiny sea shells inside them, a small bit of remembrance, such as this bit of bottled fragrance, will have to suffice until I can scrounge up the funds for airfare. It is, when one can live in the expansive realm of imagination and possibility, almost enough, and for now it will have to do.

As for the fragrance itself, it carries the customary complexity of Ford’s Private Blend collection, revealing its notes to varying degrees throughout the duration of wear – starting with a heavenly wave of its namesake, and running through what can only be comparable to the passing of the sun overhead.

The official description reads as such: “The fragrance opens with the interplay of two types of lavender: the bright, tonic flash of Lavandin and the concentrated herbal undertones of Lavender Absolute. Lemon and bergamot merge with clary sage for a lemony coastal blend reminiscent of Malibu while pink and white oleander and lime blossom lend an ethereal facet that is very Los Feliz. Olibanum and rich green moss texture the bottom note with addictive warmth that reveals itself slowly for a lasting experience.”

Ford has a knack for taking the tried and true and crafting them into something new, relevant, vital and classic – this one is even more enduring than his fantastical forays into oud, noir, patchouli and neroli. It conjures a great many correlations – the California coast, a night breeze, the heat of the sun, a hint of decadence and old Hollywood glamour. That’s the beauty of a great scent. And that’s the glory of Tom Ford. Inspiration at its finest. I think I may have to throw a Lavender Party for this one.

Continue reading ...