Category Archives: Food

Further Adventures in the Kitchen: A Startlingly Good Success

To counteract my dismal dahl doings (and combat a few days of the dreadful BRAT diet), this is a successful kitchen creation story with a super happy ending. While laid up with the nasty stomach flu, I tortured myself by watching the Food Network and seeing all the things I couldn’t eat. (It’s a little thing I do.) On ‘The Barefoot Contessa’ (is she even a real Contessa? What is a real Contessa anyway?) Ina was having some of her favorite chefs give out the recipes for what they liked to cook after a day of hard work at their respective restaurants – so these were supposed to be good, but relatively quick and easy. Chef Julia Turschen explained her Kimchi fried rice dish that looked so good, and simple, I knew I’d have to try it as soon as my stomach allowed.

Here is the recipe – it worked so well you just need to follow it word for word:

Kimchi Fried Rice with Fried Egg
  • 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1/4 cup finely chopped yellow onion
  • 1 small garlic clove, finely minced
  • Coarse salt
  • 1/2 cup finely chopped very sour kimchi
  • 1 teaspoon soy sauce
  • 1 cup day-old cooked rice, at room temperature
  • 1 very good egg
  • 1 scallion, white and light green parts only, very thinly sliced
  • 1 generous pinch coarse Korean chili powder
Directions:

Heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring now and then, until the onions begin to soften and just begin to brown, about 10 minutes. Turn the heat to high and add the kimchi and cook for 2 or 3 minutes until it begins to crisp on the edges. Add the soy sauce and rice and stir thoroughly to combine. Cook until the rice is warmed through and beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Transfer the rice to a warm, shallow bowl and set aside.

Wipe the skillet clean with a paper towel and add 2 tablespoons of olive oil to the pan and return it to the stove set over high heat. Crack the egg into the skillet, sprinkle it with a pinch of salt and immediately cover the pan with a lid. Cook until the egg white is cooked through and the yolk is barely set. Slip a spatula underneath the egg and transfer it on top of the rice. Scatter the scallion over the dish and sprinkle with the chili powder. Eat immediately, being sure to break the yolk and let is act like a sauce over the rice.

I doubled the recipe (if I’m going to invest the time and effort into cooking something, it better damn well feed more than one person at one sitting), and went a little heavier on the rice (about three cups, cooked) because I wasn’t sure how much heat I could take (kimchi is no joke). It was said by the chef that kimchi totally changes once it is cooked – and this proved true. When it first hit the pan, I wasn’t sure. That initial aroma is intense, and some might find it off-putting, but after a few minutes it transforms into pure goodness, and by the time the rice is added it all comes together in almost-miraculous alchemy.

The double dose of fried egg was killer – and this dish is all about that fried egg topper. (I sent the recipe to Suzie, who tried it before I could, what with a working intestinal track and all, and she agreed that it was the egg that sent it spinning.) I used cayenne pepper for the Korean chili powder and it seemed to work just as well, if a little less coarse. Don’t skip out on the scallions either – they’re much more than a simple garnish here. All in all, this is one supreme recipe that even Andy enjoyed. (And he’s not easy to please.)

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Adventures in the Kitchen: Doing the Damn Dahl

Everyone said dahl would be an easy recipe – and it was. The problem may be that I just don’t like it. Some might joke that I don’t know my way around the kitchen – and if you’re talking about making pancakes from scratch without the aid of something like Bisquick, you’re right. (And, okay, I occasionally forget that the stove-top is on until the smoke alarm goes off, and some things have unintentionally burned – NEVER food though, just pans or cork trivets or plastic ladels). But for most everything else, I’m pretty damn serviceable. If you’ve graduated from high school, you should be able to follow a recipe. (Those are always my famous last words before a cooking disaster.)

Sometimes though, either the recipe is off, or mistakes are made, or a lack of professional training comes in as far as flavoring and tasting goes. I’m going to blame the recipe this time. I wanted to make a simple dahl. I got the recipe online (which is always going to be a crap-shoot no matter how many stars or reviewers have glowingly rated it) and I liked it because it did away with the coconut milk.

Which brings to mind a question for FUSSYLittleBLOG: is coconut milk a dairy product? I’m guessing no, as it comes from a plant source, not a mammal, but does that mean it doesn’t have any lactose in it? I believe the lactose is the issue for me, so I avoided it just in case. However, that may have proved fatal to this recipe.

I obtained the necessary ingredients from the Asian Supermarket. We had most of the spices on hand, with the exception of cardamom, but we don’t have a supply of red lentils. I rinsed them off, assembled and cooked the onion and garlic, then added the water and other ingredients. It looked and smelled like it was coming together nicely. I brought it to a boil, then turned it down to low and covered it, allowing it to simmer for 45 minutes or so. When I returned, the lentils had softened and expanded, and the soup had turned wonderfully rich and thick.

But here’s where I’m a bad cook, and my amateurishness would be blasted by anyone of those scary chefs on the Food Network: I don’t taste until the end. The reason being is that, apart from salt and pepper and possibly sugar, I wouldn’t know what else to add or change to rectify things. I’m not Julia Fucking Child.

In this case, the taste was just off. Well, maybe not off so much as unimpressive. It reminded me a little bit, in its blandness, of the mung bean dish that I used to try, and hate, at family dinners. Maybe that’s what dahl tastes like, but with all the spices involved (coriander, cardamom, turmeric, cumin, cayenne, cinnamon, and fresh ginger) I expected more. At that point, I could have added a ton of salt and pepper, but that always seems like cheating to me. If a recipe’s no good without having to add a shitload of salt to it, then the recipe’s no good. This one was bland, and bad.

Never one to dismiss anything before it’s plated up properly, I poured the dahl over some rice. It looked good. It looked hearty. It looked like how I wanted it to look. Unfortunately, it still tasted the same. If anything, it was more disappointing because the appearance was so at odds with the lack of flavor. I was bummed. Andy was kind and blamed it on the recipe. I chalked it to up to a failure not quite on a par with pancakes from scratch, but a waste nonetheless. However, my next cooking adventure would prove far more successful…

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The Bare-assed Contessa

Here’s a fun little thing I did on a recent day off from work, while stricken with that nasty stomach flu and on a strict BRAT diet of bananas, rice, applesauce and toast: I watched the Food Network. My favorite was the ‘Barefoot Contessa.’ Watching Ina Garten and her husband Jeffrey share a picnic of California BLTs (with avocado, thank you) on the docks of Montauk while waiting for Andy to get back with Gatorade from the local Price Chopper was my number one highlight. Seeing her tell Jeffrey that she was “ready to rock and roll,” and then calling him “babe” was a close second. They were laughing at me, I know it.

After the Contessa, that buffoon Paula Deen had a kid from the Disney channel on (Kenton Duty). Could the nightmare get any worse? Yes, because the precocious fuck soon began singing a song he wrote for her. Accompanied by himself on the guitar.

[Sigh] – I’m going back to my banana.

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A Little Bit of Italy in Albany, Via Utica

Matt Baumgartner has already brought bits of Mexico (Bomber’s), Germany (Wolff’s Biergarten), and England (The Olde English Pub) to the Albany area, and his latest – Sciortino’s – aims to bring a little bit of Italy, by way of Utica, to Broadway. Housed in the former Miss Albany Diner space (and right next door to the Biergarten), Sciortino’s keeps things simple and casual, drawing on Mr. Baumgartner’s Italian heritage (the restaurant was named for his grandparents) and his upbringing in Utica (there is even a Utica Special, featuring any beverage, Utica greens, your choice of riggies, and Pizza Frita).

The pizza is a big part of the place, served in ample square slices for easy take-out (two make for more than an average meal), or in a larger size for more mouths. The tomato pie (with its simple red sauce and Pecorino Romano cheese) is another Utica classic, but there are other offerings, including a white pizza (broccoli, ricotta, and mozzarella) and a BBQ pizza, along with standard toppings that you can add for an additional cost.

A few Italian staples are also on hand, from a chicken or eggplant parm dish to the aforementioned riggies (chicken, sausage, or shrimp), as well as baked hats.

At such a comfort-food place, a smattering of sweet treats for dessert is expected, and the towering ice cream sundae certainly delivered. Give me a cherry-topped mound of ice cream and whipped cream, and I’ll practically cream my pants. It’s my favorite kind of happy ending.

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A Mexican Morning Coda

I thought our Mexican weekend had ended, but once in a while you extend the fun into Sunday morning. JoAnn usually does a big breakfast at some point during her visits, but we had done so much already, it didn’t look likely. However, I had some purple potatoes that needed to be used, so I popped them in some olive oil and salt and pepper, roasting them to a tender crisp. I asked Andy, half-jokingly, to prepare us a few Mexican omelettes, not expecting him to do so. JoAnn and I sat in the living room while the potatoes cooked.

To our surprise and delicious delight, Andy had scraped together the leftover vegetables from the previous eve’s fajitas, and conjured a perfect Mexican omelette, with a side of purple potatoes and a piece of jalapeno cornbread. It was the perfect ending to a pretty perfect weekend. To ease the pain of her leaving, we made plans for the next rendezvous, and a date for the Summer of Love 60’s Party. It helps to look forward to something, especially if the summer is involved.

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Fajitas & Ritas

JoAnn came over this weekend and we made it a weekend of Mexican food and tequila cocktails. Things started off on Friday evening, with an ease-of-entry drink, the Paloma Cooler. We caught up by the conversation couch, limes bobbing along in our drinks, a bottle of tequila briefly on hand until it was gone (and we opened the next one), and the understanding and camaraderie of a dear old friend. Nothing quells the winter doldrums quite like that.

After getting up to speed, we moved into the dining room for a late dinner of slow-cooked cilantro-lime chicken. It’s not fancy by any means, but it’s easy and tastes good. The wonders of a crock-pot. Recipe is as follows:

Slow-Cooked Cilantro Lime Chicken

Ingredients

  • 1 (16 ounce) jar salsa
  • 1 (1.25 ounce) package dry taco seasoning mix
  • 1 lime, juiced
  • 4-5 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
  • 3 pounds skinless, boneless chicken breast halves
  • 1 can black beans

Directions: Place the salsa, taco seasoning, lime juice, black beans and cilantro into a slow cooker, and stir to combine. Add the chicken breasts, and stir to coat with the salsa mixture. Cover the cooker, set to High, and cook until the chicken is very tender, about 4 hours. If desired, set cooker to Low and cook 6 to 8 hours. Shred chicken with 2 forks to serve.

I asked Andy to make a jalapeno corn bread to go along with the chicken, and I found an easy box mix that incorporated sun-dried tomatoes. It came out deliciously, with a rich amber coloring, just enough jalapeno heat to add interest, and the crumbly goodness that is the hallmark of cornbread. We slept well after that – almost too well – JoAnn hit it hard and didn’t rise until 1 PM, but that’s how it should be when decompressing and relaxing. She needed it – we both did – and a sleepy morning that bleeds into the afternoon is the best way of dealing with the Winter.

We made our traditional run to Faddegon’s – a greenhouse can calm the most frayed of nerves at this time of the year – and then proceeded to the Fresh Market to pick up the last few items for our mini Mexican feast. JoAnn made her seven-layer bean dip, and prepped the vegetables and chicken for the fajitas. We switched from the Paloma Cooler to margaritas, salted rim and all. For dessert she had planned on doing an apple-filled enchilada, but we were so stuffed from the dip (and drained from the night before) that we turned it into a simple bowl of vanilla ice cream sprinkled with cinnamon. You don’t get a more bastardized version of a Mexican meal than that. No matter, the spirit of tequila wrapped itself around us, and the company was good and true. With a double DVD dose of ‘The Mexican’ and ‘9 to 5’, we closed the night down and headed to bed.


 

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Banging the Wall By Harvey

Like so many other tidbits of integral knowledge, I first heard of Harvey Wallbanger from an episode of ‘The Golden Girls.’ (There is much I have learned solely through Golden Girl episodes). In this one, Sophia’s friend was waiting for her at a bar and was drinking a Harvey Wallbanger. “Seeing a lot of Mr. Wallbanger lately, aren’t you?” Years later, for our most recent holiday party in fact, my friend Scott made a Harvey Wallbanger cake, and suddenly I was sold. Making use of that bastion of 70’s liqueur – Galliano – some vodka, and fresh orange juice, this is one sweet and moist cake. I liked Scott’s version enough to try it on my own, and with the exception of the Galliano and some pudding mix, we already had all the ingredients on hand. If it’s easy enough for me to handle, you can handle it too. The recipe follows:

Harvey Wallbanger Cake Recipe

Ingredients:

Cake:

1 box (about 18.75 ounces) yellow cake mix

1 cup vegetable oil

4 large eggs

1/4 cup Galliano liqueur

1/4 cup vodka

1 package (3-ounces) vanilla instant pudding mix

3/4 cup fresh orange juice

 

Glaze:

1 cup sifted powdered sugar

1 Tablespoon fresh orange juice

1 Tablespoon Galliano

1 teaspoon vodka

Preparation:

Preheat oven to 350 F. Grease and flour a Bundt pan or spray with floured vegetable spray.

Place cake mix, oil, eggs, liqueur, vodka, pudding mix, and orange juice into a large mixing bowl. Beat on medium speed for 2 minutes.

Pour evenly into prepared Bundt pan and tap gently on the counter to release any air bubbles. Bake for 45 to 50 minutes. A toothpick inserted in the center should come out clean. (Do not overbake or it will become dry.) Let rest for 5 minutes. Gently loosen edges around the rims with a thin rubber spatula. Invert and unmold from Bundt pan onto a cake platter, then glaze while warm.

For the glaze, mix powdered sugar, orange juice, liqueur, and vodka until smooth. (If it is too thick, add more orange juice a few drops at a time to get a drizzling consistency. If it is too thin, add more powdered sugar a teaspoon at a time.) Drizzle over the warm cake and let cool to room temperature for glaze to set.

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One Potato, Two Potato, Three Potato

These Baby Yukon Gold potatoes look better than any other potato I’ve ever baked, thanks to a nifty trick culled from the Barefoot Contessa again. Ina Garten found this method of preparing the tubers while in London, and it adds a delicate flair to an otherwise simple and hearty side dish. It’s quite simple – you skim off the bottom of a potato so it stands solidly without rocking. Then you cut almost to the bottom in 1/8 inch slices, so that the potato stays intact, but sliced. Coat in olive oil and a mixture of rosemary, salt and pepper, working both oil and spices in between each slice. Bake at 425 for about half an hour. Pretty, easy, and perfect for a holiday dinner.

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Red Radishes

Growing up, the sliced radish was the one part of a salad that I couldn’t stomach. It was too spicy, too harsh, too biting – and like Fritos and pizza and lobster, I didn’t go back to it for many years. But while I returned to those favorites and grew to love them, my return to radishes has only just taken place, spurred on by an episode of the Barefoot Contessa Goes to London, wherein the root vegetable formed a colorful addition to a ploughman’s lunch. Ms. Garten has featured the radish before, honoring it as a popular French snack, served with sea salt and a baguette of French bread smeared with salted butter.

Without radishes from the garden (we are, as FUSSYlittleBLOG pointed out, far from radish season – he directed me to Buenos Aires), I looked in Fresh Market, which had a few in their organic section. I found some cheap sea salt there as well, but forgot that Marshall’s is the real secret place to get decent spices at much more reasonable prices. With that in mind, I stopped by their Homegoods store and found some Himalayan Pink Sea Salt in its own grinder. Pink just makes everything better.

As for taste, the radish is just as I remembered it, though the addition of a little pink sea salt added another layer of welcome interest. Served with a buttered baguette, it made for a simple preamble to dinner, and I can see how it would make a good after-work snack. Nothing that I’ll do with any regularity, at least not until I put some radishes in my own garden, but a nice enough break to winter monotony.

(My favorite part was still the Himalayan pink salt. I mean, it was pink.)

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Jewels of the Season

These precious gems are pomegranates, and once removed from their encasement they shine like jewels. The trick to excavating them and not getting your hands stained with their potent color, is to cut the whole fruit in half, then work to remove the seeds in a bowl of water. It just takes a bit of practice, and soon you’ll have a gorgeous pile of antioxidant-rich fruit, ready for snacking, cocktailing, or just sprinkling on melon or salads.

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Get A Load of These Gams, Err, Yams

The first time I made a dish of candied yams was for a lark. Was there a more gaily-monikered Thanksgiving staple than “Candied Yams”? Green Beans Exotic has its own charms, but candied yams… well, they’re gay in the best possible sense. That was over ten years ago, when Andy and I were attending our first holidays together. I stuck close to the first recipe I found, deviating not in the slightest from the instructions. Since that time, I’ve become much more confident, at least regarding this dish, which can take some serious deviations and still be edible. (Not so much the case when substituting parsley with cilantro, accident or not.)

Here is the original recipe, a very good place to start. I amended it only slightly the first few times I made it, afraid to mix things up too much, so this is the standard to which you can add and amend to your taste buds’ desire.

Alan’s Candied Yams
– 5 or 6 large yams/sweet potatoes (and we will not argue the difference here)
– 3/4 cup brown sugar
– 1/2 cup orange liqueor (Cointreau or triple sec)
– 3/4 cup dark corn syrup
– 1/4 cup maple syrup
– 1 tsp. vanilla extract
– 2 to 3 Tbsp. hot water
– Nutmeg, cinnamon, salt, and pepper – to taste (about 1 tsp each, less of salt and pepper)
– 1 stick butter

Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a casserole dish (11″ x 11″ x 2″) with margarine or butter.

Fill a large pot with enough water to cover yams and boil on high until fork just begins to slide easily into them (not completely done). Remove peels and cut in half, then into two inch chunks. Add to casserole dish.

Combine brown sugar, orange liquor, dark corn syrup, maple syrup, vanilla extract, water, and spices in a bowl and mix well. Pour about 3/4 of mix over yams in casserole dish. Cut butter into ten or twelve pats and dot yams with it.

Bake at 350 degrees for about 20 minutes, then stir and pour remaining mixture over yams. Bake another 15 minutes or so until done.

Some of the variations I’ve done over the years have involved the addition of a crumble on top (a simple butter/brown sugar/flour/oat mix) and, that gay fun ingredient that makes almost nothing better, marshmallows! (Use the mini ones, as they’ll grow much, much bigger in the oven. What’s not to love?)

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Garbanzo Lover

One of my favorite foods is the garbanzo bean (more commonly known as chick peas). When I was little I would load my plate with garbanzos and cottage cheese, and be perfectly content eating only that. (I was a strange child.) As I’ve grown, I’ve held onto my love for garbanzos, so when a friend came into work with a garbanzo dish, she let me try it and I instantly had a new favorite recipe. Recently, someone asked me to share the recipe, and it’s super easy but ridiculously tasty if you like chick peas.

I’d only ever had them cold and in a salad, but it turns out they are just as good, if not better, warmed up. I’m told this is an old-fashioned Italian dish, which makes sense. My love affair with the beans originated at Pepe’s Italian Restaurant in Amsterdam. I’ve modified the recipe slightly, due to personal preference, and, more importantly, forgetfulness.

3 cans garbanzo beans (chick peas) – with liquid reserved from one
1 medium onion (diced)
2 cloves garlic (minced)
Dash of olive oil
Salt and pepper
2 Tbsp. fennel seed
 

Heat oil on medium and saute onion and garlic until soft. Add fennel seed and salt and pepper and cook for a few more minutes. Drain all but one of the cans of beans and add to pot. Stir and cook for another 20 minutes or so.

That’s it! Super easy, and super adjustable, so if you don’t want to cook for that long, or if you’d prefer to amend with extra spices it can’t be injured. It’s the perfect side dish for a Fall meal, and you can make as big or small batch as needed.

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A Four-Course Dinner at the American Hotel – The Sharon Springs Adventure Comes to a Happy, and Delicious, Close

Upon returning from Cooperstown, we were scheduled for our dinner at the American Hotel. By that point, we had settled into the leisurely pace of the town, the quiet peace and stillness of this place, the way the Hotel was becoming more of a home than a hotel. After a cozy cocktail at the bar, I waited for Andy to join me downstairs, at which point Heidi brought us into the dining room. She was working as one of the servers that night, and it was a comfort to be in such good hands for our four course meal.

It starts off simply, elegantly ~ a surprisingly flavorful serving of pickled carrots and warm bread served with an herb butter, the latter wrapping it all together in a creamy, dreamy  spread of dairy delight.

A lobster chowder follows, featuring ample chunks of lobster, potatoes, and a creamy but light broth that perfectly complements and adds additional flavor to the meat at hand.

The salad is of Mediteranean derivation, with feta cheese and creamy Parmesan dressing, Romaine heads, kalamata olives, tomatoes and red onions. Being that I eat a salad every day for lunch, the tired staple really needs to be impressive to move me – and this one certainly was. When the ingredients are this fresh, and when the preparation is this skilled, a salad like this becomes so much more.

The main course is a plate filled with medallions of beef and lobster, a veritable explosion of texture and flavor – fleshy and rich and decadent in the best possible ways. It turns out there’s no such thing as too much of a good thing (even if I don’t manage to finish the entire dish).

Dessert is a cheesecake ice cream. Nothing else needs to be said. Love – just love.

Our time at the American Hotel had come to its happy ending. Having learned to slow things down, to take our time, to appreciate and enjoy, it would be a lesson, and a sacred memory, we would take with us. How could a place so close seem so wonderfully removed? And how could we have missed out on its magic all this time? Sometimes it really is right in your own backyard.

Many thanks to the amazing staff at the American Hotel for reminding us of what true hospitality is, and the town of Sharon Springs for forcing us to slow down.

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Apple Crisp Fall Day

Baking and cooking are things that I usually only get into during the Fall and Winter seasons. Cocktails can be done year-round, but to turn on the oven or stove requires cooler temperatures and the desire to get cozy. To that end, this weekend marked my return to the kitchen. A bag of Macintosh apples was resting on the kitchen counter, so when I woke up I did a quick online search for an apple crisp recipe and used the following, as it seemed the easiest:

Apple Crisp
5 cups apples, peeled, cored, and sliced
1/4 cup flour
1/2 cup oats
1 cup brown sugar
1/2 cup butter, softened
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup water
1 Tablespoon lemon juice

Peel, core, and slice apples, then add to baking dish with water and lemon juice (I added the latter to keep the apples from going brown, but it’s probably not necessary as once they’re coated it doesn’t matter). Mix the dry ingredients with the butter, then pour over top of apples. Bake at 375 for 40 minutes.

Waking Andy for a demonstration of the assembly and operation of the apple-peeler-corer-slicer that we bought from some Pampered Chef party many years ago seemed to go against the surprise element of the breakfast I was making for him, so I did it the old-fashioned way, peeling them without mechanical aid, then slicing them up without a corer. Once I got the hang of it things went smoothly, but I was thankful for the lemon juice.

I may have had too many apples, but they filled the baking dish so I let it go – next time I’ll go heavier on the crisp – as that’s the best part of this whole thing anyway.

 

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From the Kitchen of the Waldorf

It’s summer, and time for meals that don’t involve the oven or stove-top. In this instance, I made a Waldorf chicken salad. (If you buy a rotisserie chicken there’s no need to heat up anything.)

Here’s the recipe – I will follow it with my variations:

Ingredients:
2-4 cups rotisserie chicken, shredded
1 cup chopped Granny Smith apple
1/2 cup celery, chopped
1 cup green seedless grapes, halved
1/2 cup walnuts, chopped
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
2 tablespoons sour cream
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Salt & pepper to taste

Directions:
1. Mix all fruits and vegetables together
2. Toss lightly with lemon juice
3. Stir in walnuts, chicken, mayo and sour cream.
4. Add salt and pepper to taste.
5. Cover and refrigerate at least two hours to meld flavors.

It’s really a recipe that involves chopping and assembling, no culinary expertise needed. I substituted plain yogurt for the sour cream and used a bit more than two tablespoons. (Which allowed me to use less mayo as we were down to the bottom of the container.)

I also added the fresh lemon juice earlier, sprinkling it onto the apple as soon as it was chopped (it will prevent the apple from turning brown – which happens sooner than you think). A small sprig of mint from the garden works well as a garnish. This is the quintessential summer dish, but because of the mayo be sure to keep it cool.

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