It’s been no secret that the majority of recent Tom Ford fragrance releases have not thrilled my nose. The potent and sometimes-polarizing boldness of the original Private Blend collection had given way to more commercial and mainstream offerings – nothing terribly offensive, but nothing terribly brave. That changes with the arrival of the latest in the Oud line – ‘Oud Voyager’ – which is a stunning addition to the collection (and a 50th birthday gift to myself the last time I was in Boston).

Billed as a woody floral scent, it transcends those basic designations into something a bit richer. Opening with a fresh blast of geranium and red peony before hints of spice come into play – pink pepper, saffron and cardamom – it blossoms before the mesmerizing oud comes into prominence. Some have said this skews closely to ‘Oud Fleur’, another gorgeous floral oud, but I find it’s closer to Frederic Malle’s ‘Promise’ with a fruit-like element of sweetness.

It’s a banger from the beginning, even if the oud isn’t the extreme pungent blast that some fragrance fanciers favor – it’s more of a softer, benign take on it, which is perfect for the fall season. We want to ease into this, yes, with some fanfare and excitement, but elegant restraint as well. The push and pull of life – the extremes of fall – the enchantment of oud…
